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3* Assessment


Jed

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yeee-whoooo!

congrats!

3 star is a really tough one - all the strokes all picture perfect and all...boat control, knots....and mikco "gives away" nothing, nada, zip...you folks earned those badges! did you have maynard? he's almost satanic, isn't he?

congrats again!

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There is always more to practice and room for improvement. The three star class with John Carmody was very enjoyable and helpful. If you can’t get up there this fall (still nice weather), then, make it in the spring to start yourself off right for a good season.

Good luck to Suz, Paula, and Christopher, I know how hard you have practiced.

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I didn't pass... and I knew it. But I have a nice crisp list from Steve of what to work on, and will definitely be back!

Steve -- satanic? Nope, just tough, but very fair... also kind and helpful, and has a terrific eye for what you really know and don't. John Carmody's class was indeed quite useful, but I wish I had had it and/or one by Steve a couple weeks earlier. The day before is really too late to fix a lot of things... for me, at least.

--David.

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Guest Jon Rose

I am happy to say I also passed. It was tough and exacting both days.

I feel that having the time down in Peekskill at Atlantic Kayak was really helpful to me. I had two 3* trainings there as well, one an all day private. As said, Steve and John were great, seriously looking at all the skills required and also sensitive and helpful with all their comments.

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you're right, it just doesn't give you enough time to work out any "kinks" uncovered by the training. and even if you did have them mostly worked out, since they just saw, reviewed and coached you on how to fix whatever problem, they are exacting in what they are looking for in the element.

that's a tough one...the season isn't over though and if you just work at whatever it is, you'll nail it. what was it that was holding you back? maybe someone out there has something they found helpful in getting over the same thing?

good luck!

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I did not take the assessment (I knew I wasn't ready), but I did take the training on Saturday. Steve Maynard's training was outstanding, not only did I learn alot, but I got some excellent feedback as to where I stood, what elements I needed to spend more time on, and which one's were OK. The value you get from these training sessions from any of the HIGHLY qualified instructors at MIKCo is well worth the trip. We are so lucky to have such a highly regarded outfit like MIKCo so close by.

PS. Congratluations to all that passed the 3*

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Paula/Christopher and I are hoping to squeeze in an assessment prior to leaving for Georgia for 4* training. We are hoping for this coming weekend but if it doesn't work out, we will need to do it when we come back.

My congratulations to all for their hard work! I have found that the more I practice, the more value I see in striving for the "perfect" strokes on flat water. The work in flat water continues to build the comfort level with the strokes in the bumpy water. When I first started practicing, I saw the 3* as a necessary evil, something I had to do before I could do the fun stuff of the 4*. Now I have a better understanding that a mastery of the strokes in flat water builds the confidence you need in the bigger water to execute the same strokes in more challenging conditions.

Suzanne

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Congratulations are in order for those who passed: well done! It represents a lot of dedicated practice.

And kudos to those who are still working on their strokes. I didn't pass the first time I took the test and didn't deserve to since I didn't execute two of the strokes properly. The list of those who had to retake BCU tests at MIKCO is a long and honorable one, including some on their staff.

As as several have pointed out, the atmosphere of testing at MIKCO is not to pass the hurdle, but to guide the learning. I learned from the MIKCO staff and also from fellow club members. I practiced in the company of NSPN paddlers. And it was Jed who finally showed me the secret of how to correct a full speed backwards paddle when it starts to veer off course, which allowed me to pass 3*.

That was what I found valuable: not the certification but the structure to focus on what needs improvement and the discipline to do it.

Best luck to Paula, Christopher and Suz...and anyone else going for it this weekend.

Scott

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> And it was Jed who finally showed me the secret of how to correct a

> full speed backwards paddle when it starts to veer off course, which

> allowed me to pass 3*.

Can you or Jed share that with us. I had a little trouble with that, but more with steering while paddling backwards in the figure-eight. I had practiced only a tight figure eight, turning all the way, rather than one that required a combination of straight paddling, steering and turning around two somewhat widely-spaced markers.

Thanks. --David.

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David,

If memory serves (and there's no reason to assume it does) I didn't so much show Scott any secrets but rather encouraged the group to think past the obvious and consider the effects of various parts of the reverse stroke. The "secret", if it can be called that, is assessing what the various parts of your stroke do to the kayak.

For example, break your forward stroke into thirds (forward 1/3rd, middle 1/3rd and aft 1/3rd). Does each 1/3rd of your forward stroke do the same thing to your boat? If not, then what does the first 1/3rd of your forward stroke do compared to the middle 1/3rd or the last 1/3rd? Why don't they all do the same thing?

What differentiates a forward sweep stroke from a forward stroke? How does one initiate a turn at speed versus at rest? Why is there a difference? How do these facts fit relative to our model of how to paddle and how kayaks and paddles work?

When you can answer these questions (even if only to your own satisfaction) then you already know the answer. All that's left at that point is to apply what you know to your paddling. Each person will interpret the questions and understand the answers differently. Don't worry if your understanding doesn't match someone else's. What matters is that you have a model that works for you and your boat. If your model doesn't work then adjust the model so that it accurately portrays your understanding of how things work.

I look forward to your thoughts and comments.

jed

PS Congrats to all that push themsleves to improves wether it's via BCU, ACA or Greenland training. Scott has it exactly right that the award (BCU 3*) is not the point, it's just a carrot to lure you towards the satisfaction and confidence that comes from trying to master various paddling strokes and skill sets. It's not for everyone but for some it's quite a powerful tonic.

>> And it was Jed who finally showed me the secret of how to correct a

>> full speed backwards paddle when it starts to veer off course, which

>> allowed me to pass 3*.

>

>Can you or Jed share that with us. I had a little trouble

>with that, but more with steering while paddling backwards

>in the figure-eight. I had practiced only a tight figure

>eight, turning all the way, rather than one that required a

>combination of straight paddling, steering and turning

>around two somewhat widely-spaced markers.

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Jed:

OK, Socrates ;-))) I'll try.

I've always assumed -- and got some confirmation from the training -- that the "trick" is a strong final third of a sweep from leading end of the boat (the stern when going backwards) to trailing end (bow). That's essentially a draw at the trailing end (bow), since a skidding rear (bow) is generally what you -- anyway I -- see when reverse paddling veers. Also, corrections at the trailing end (bow) are more efficient than at the leading end because there is less pressure at the rear from motion through the water.

So, stick the paddle out perpendicular on the inside of the turn that you want to counteract, the side the boat is veering to, and push forward with a sweep toward the bow, drawing the bow back into line.

Make any sense? If so, is there more? How about edging on the inside of the veer at the same time?

Also, how about ruddering? Of course, a rudder breaks the stroking rhythm and slows you down, so is it a ding for assessment of straight backwards paddling? But for the backward figure-eight the point seems to be effective steering and turns, so is ruddering OK there?

If so, how about a positive (prying) rudder at the trailing edge (bow) on the outside, opposite the veer, which pushes the rear (bow) where you want it. That's the equivalent of a prying stern rudder in forward paddling. Also, a prying rudder on the inside at the leading end (stern) might work, or a drawing rudder at the stern on the outside.

Of course, even if this is right, I gotta try it all out and see what works, and then practice until I can do it second nature. But even purely conceptual hints are welcome.

--David.

PS: Did I get the ends of the boat and the sides right? It's easier to demonstrate than to write.

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David and I took this conversation back-channel in part because we could see things getting too technical for most poeple and because we both believe that these concepts are best understood when they are presented / translated to language targeted at a very small audience.

For the sake of David's post I'll attempt to summarize in generic language:

The nature and effectiveness of a sweep stroke changes (wether biased towards turning versus propulsion) dependent on several things, one of which is the orientation of the paddle blade relative to the longitudinal axis of the boat. In layman's terms a sweep stroke is most effective for turning when the paddle blade is parallel to the length of the boat and least effective when the blade is perpendicular to the length of the boat.

The nature and effectiveness of a sweep stroke varies dependent on the boat's speed (over water). Or alternatively, sweep strokes are most effective when there is no forwards or rearward movement of the boat and become less effective as the boat's speed increases in either direction.

Dependent of which direction the boat is moving and the boats speed over water, a bow (or stern) draw (or pry) can range in effectiveness from not bad to absolutely abysmal.

Sea kayaks track like sea kayaks when they are moving forward but behave more like much shorter boats when they are moving in reverse.

It is most easy to apply corrective strokes earlier rather than later. The delayed application of a corrective stroke may result in a reduction of the effectiveness of that correction. At some point the correction required may exceed the paddlers ability to generate sufficient corrective forces.

See if you can explain to yourself why (or even if) the above statements are true. Then see if you can get someone else to agree with you and you'll understand why David and I took this discussion back-channel.

Cheers, have fun!

jed

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I for one have appreciated this series of posts. I have a boat that simply won't track when paddled in reverse, while it is a very tracky boat when paddled forward. Every other boat that I try I can keep in a straight line while paddling backward, but not the Surge. With an integral skeg and alot of bow rocker, in reverse it acts like a short whitewater boat, but once it veers it quickly gets beyond the point where I can correct it. The stern, as bow, acts as a pivot for the easily swinging bow (when acting as stern) and any slight veering from a true course sends the boat into a spin, which is fun, but frustrating.

Reverse figure eights are pretty easy, but when I can paddle this boat in reverse in a straight line, I think it will be a sign that my strokes are getting somewhere.

I have a lot of respect for all those that are pursuing the BCU certs.

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  • 3 weeks later...

David:

A delayed response (dial up only in GA):

Since Jed and you have outlined the factors involved, I'll try to keep my response simple.

My memory of Jed's explanation was that a boat in motion tends to lock in the leading end while turbulence makes the trailing end easier to move sideways. My attempt to straighten out the veer was to lean waaayyyy back (thus locking in the stern even deeper) and digging in at the stern and sweeping out only about a third of the sweep (where the boat won't move). This frantic sweeping had no effect on the veer except to accelerate the boat, making the veer worse.

Jed's advice (as I remember it)? Lean forward to unweight the stern and lock in the bow a bit, and sweep the third toward the bow where the turbulence makes the water 'loose'. Solved my problem.

By the way, I've found edging helps maintain the straight line, but won't by itself straighten the boat once it starts to veer. The effect of edging on the DIRECTION of turn is quite modest, especially compared to the momentum of a turn. The main effect of edging on turns is to shorten the waterline, which allows an easier turn. For minor deviations and not a lot of speed, edging will gradually turn a boat back on course. But once a turn is well under way, an edge on EITHER side will only accelerate the turn.

Try it and see for yourself.

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