Umbagog Scouting: July 23-24, 2005

[eneumeier]

Peter B., Bob C. and I explored Umbagog Lake on July 23 & 24. I was scouting the area in preparation for a fall level 2 kayak camping trip, Peter, building a log house with a fabulous view of the lake, was our host and guide, and Bob was scouting the area out for a youth canoe trip next month.

On my drive up Rt. 16 heading toward Errol I did, as many told me I would, see my first moose. Not huge, this one appeared to be young and was standing in muck just off the road, casually glancing at the motorists who pulled over to look,then returning to munch. Bob drove up in the dark and only (fortunately) saw haunches retreating from the road.

Bob reports that he slept facing east and woke up to see the mountain peaks outline with a glowing electric orange just before sunrise. Moving out to catch the sun rise he saw a fisher bounding across the field. This grand start followed for the next two days as clear blue skies and comfortable temperatures contributed to a great experience. The clear mountain air was a welcome relief from the humidity in the Boston area.

Saturday morning we put in the Androscoggin about a mile above the Errol Dam. As soon as we pulled away from the launch a golden eye and her two chicks greeted us, and the Loon Preservation Patrol boat passed by. Paddling for two miles past Sweat Meadows and Floating Island we reached the junction of the Magalloway River, Umbagog Lake and the Androscoggin where we turned up the Magalloway. After passing an Eagle nest, which placed the first cut through off limits, we cut over to Leonard pond at the second cut through. Saw more golden eye and two of the remote campsites (R-28 and 29).

From Leonard pond we moved out onto the main lake, following the shore past Leonard marsh where an occupied eagle nest rewarded us with a show of two eagles in flight (no moose). A short stretch/snack break resulted in very muddy feet, although our footsteps were light compared to moose. After Leonard marsh we paddled along the north shore of the lake, passing several camps (some quite fancy) which shattered the image of a wilderness lake. I was looking for bail out options in case my level 2 trip makes it this far. Actually there is very little development on the lakefront and the 38 remote campsites are discretely placed. The shallowness (average depth of 15 feet) with many hidden rocks does not encourage excessive or speedy boating activity. I left a bit on gelcoat on one, despite my best intentions.

Moving along past Sturtevant Cove, remote sites at the entrance to Sunday cove and Rapid River were checked out. Meanwhile the wind was building turning this excursion to a level 3 and raising concerns about the viability of sites in this area for a level 2 trip. After an extended break for Bob to work out some kinks, we proceeded to Pine Point to cross at the narrowest point in the northern part of the lake. Peter decided to switch to his Greenland stick for its lower wind resistance. A head wind was blowing up wind waves and throwing irregular but strong (25 kts?) gusts. A hawk – osprey aerial battle provided a bit of diversion during the slog. Bob wished he had rear view mirrors because he got so caught up in making the crossing and staying in front where others would see him if he flipped (being the novice in the group) he got too far ahead. I decided to test whether a whistle could be heard in the wind and, no surprise, it could not. Well, another good lesson learned/reinforced without mishap. The water was quite warm.

Once across we went to Moll’s Rock to check 2 more sites and the facilities which turned out to be a plastic drum with a toilet seat on top just sitting out in the open air a few feet from the campsite. If modesty is a concern bring an extra tarp and rope! The campsites were also equipped with tables (2 tables and potty barrels at the group sites) and a fire ring or pit. The fire pits have very handy grilling grates that can be flipped down over the coals at different levels. But bring your own wood as the area is a wildlife preserve and the trees, both dead and alive, is part of the environment necessary to support that wildlife.

Returning to the river we passed a loon and an osprey but still no moose. After paddling downstream (we had thought we could get some help from the current) against the wind to finish our 15-mile meandering trip, the golden eye family near at the launch ramp was a welcome sight.

Sunday morning we put in at Thurston Cove (using a secret path Peter had discovered the precise location of which will not be disclosed here) for a short run to check out sites on Big Island and Tidswell Point. In the process we encountered several very noisy loons up close, a merganser hugging the shore and a Bald Eagle soaring overhead displaying his colors in their finest. A kid at group site 2 said it was a great site. Site 6 had plenty of room and an area that would be good for swimming but it does face Rt.26 with the camps on shore making it feel less isolated, particularly at night. When we arrived at site 6 the park ferry service was just departing with two campers and their canoe. The landing areas are small and the canoes/kayaks would need to be pulled into the woods to make room for others to land.

Again on the return we were greeted with the wind. It tends to blow from the north and west. Recommendations for level 2 paddlers would be to favor the western shore and to stay close to shore at all times. Also the southern part of the lake provides more shelter. Leonard pond is an interesting area to explore. It is 4 miles up the west shore from Big Island making it a good day trip.

In conclusion with a little preparation a camping trip to Umbagog Lake can be a truly wonderful experience with a touch of wilderness, abundant wildlife, and really great scenery. In the fall it should be spectacular.

At the south end of the lake, right on Rt. 26, is a public boat launch with parking. East of that ramp is a private launch facility, Paradise Point Cottages (http://www.paradisepointcottages.com/ ) with cottages and a campground. Just east, still on Rt. 26, of Paradise is the NH Parks & Recreation campground and launch site where users of the remote sites check in. Day trippers can launch and park there.

Bob C. gets credit for much of this report, which I added to.

Liz N.

[bob budd]

Perhaps your lack of moose was due to their participation, once suitably trained, in Spamalot.

[Suz]

Sounds like you had a great trip. You almost got me thinking about a fresh water excursion:)

A few years back when we did something similar, I remember swimming in October, blue skies and glass like water that reflected the sky and showed every paddle stroke as a mini whirlpool that stayed swirling behind without disruption.

Suz

[eneumeier]

The Mooseburger at the local Errol dive turned out to be a hamburger (beef, not ham) with some sauce. (I passed and got the Elkburger.)

Liz N.

[djlewis]

If you wanna see moose, go to Baxter. There is a pond a short walk from park headquarters where moose are guaranteed to gather for feeding at dusk... or yer munny baaack!

--David.

[KayakDan]

Umbagog is an amazing place. Linda and I did a trip several years ago(one of many)and paddled at night with a full moon and dead calm. It gave a strange sensation of floating weightless with no distinguishable horizon.

An when the wind blows...welcome to the Umbagog Ocean!

[scamlin]

Reminds me of many canoe trips to Umbagog, mostly before the bugs in May or after Labor Day to fish. Some of the lasting memories were loons mating in the shallows and the full-grown bald eagle that glided past at eye-level about 30 yards from our tent. And pushing a couple miles up the Rapid River like the River of Darkness.

Scott

[BOB L]

For Moose watching the old salt barn in Jackmon Maine is the place. I have never not seen a moose there during evening visits. Many other annimals come for the free salt lick also.

Bob L