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A most relaxing portage - 16 March 2005


bob budd

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The four of us met at the Swampscott for what is likely my last paddle from the unemployment line. Mark Stephens was the first to offer his condolences. Jason arrived a bit later, soon we were in the water.

Our first inclination was to reach Egg Rock, putting what appeared to be meager wind at our backs. As we moved away from shore it became apparent that the forecasted winds indeed were blowing and we acquiesed in our pursuit of a path that would lead to a return with these winds in our faces or abeam and pushing us out to sea. Instead we chose to head up the coast aways, make for Tinkers Island, circumnavigate Marblehead Neck in a counterclockwise direction, portage across the causeway, and return with the wind more or less at our backs.

Returning to Dread Ledge we meandered about the coast, gunkholing as it were, and at a point where Ram Island more or less lined up with Tinkers Island we made for Tinkers. At this point four-of-a-kind became two pair with Mark and I skirting Ram Island and heading more less in the direction of Devereaux Beach before turning at last to meet Brad and Jason on the near end of Tinkers. Turns out Brad had followed Jason away from shore thinking his boat was experiencing windage while Jason had followed Brad away from shore thinking he (Brad) knew where he was going. As we approached the unadorned day marker at Tinkers we chose to go around to the back side with the intent of landing in the lee of the land for lunch.

Upon reaching the rock cove we found landing a bit dicy for Brad's old lady legs and chose instead to head across to Marblehead neck for a small beach. We reached the beach and hauled out with a bit of sun and no wind to speak of. Brad and I left Mark and Jason at the water's edge amidst the large pebbles for a large flat stone at the sea wall. Whilst I munched on Cheerios and raisins followed by a Granny Smith apple Brad at a still hot Chimichanga and drank yuppy tea of some sort. I took note of his solid food choice, thinking next time of likewise carrying a preheated meal in an insulated container.

When off again we set we again picked our way in and out of the rocky coast approaching the Marblehead light. With what wind there was coming more or less at our faces I found my hands getting very cold and welcomed the turn into Marblehead as we rounded the corner at the base of the lighthouse. For a minute I was disoriented, with nary a powerboat nor even a dingy mind you moored in the harbour. It was a bit eerie seeing all those moorings bobbing about in the surf with nothing tied upon them. As we neared the road a discussion of the true meaning of portage ensued, i.e. French for "this sucks". We were fortunate with the tides and were able to haul out near the parking lot.

The three brutish fellows I had taken to the water with quickly lifted their craft to their shoulders and headed across the road. I, however, struggled sufficiently with my boat that a friendly old man offered to assist me. While he took the bow and I the stern he quickly chose to offer instead the benefit of his pickup truck. Down went the tailgate and in went the boat with me after it to sit upon it and hold it in. He went right of the gate in the parking lot on the other side of the road and navigated the sidewalk delivering me past my well entertained paddling mates and all the way to the pavilion. From there I was assisted in carrying my boat to the beach which, though known for its dumping surf, was quite placid and made for an easy launch.

Our way back was quite uneventful. As we approached Swampscott the rocky coast again beckoned and we obliged by repeatedly poking our way among the crevasses and rocks. Though the wind was steady, it had for the most part encumbered us little, and there was not much surf to keep us from this habit.

Once we reached the beach we were beset first by one and then another toy poodle or similarly useless dog feigning a vicious attack. Not to be deterred, Mark and I loaded our gear onto our vehicles flinching not once. Jason and Brad hung around shore and returned to meander down the beach, perhaps chased back to the water by the canine(s).

I'd expect that there will be photos soon.

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