Coasteering and Kayaking Session: Marblehead

[rylevine]

11_18_2021: Dolliber Cove, Marblehead to Marblehead Neck. Rock gardening and coasteering. 11:30am – 2:30pm. HT 10:22am 10.1ft, LT 4:40pm 0.3ft, tidal range 9.8ft, full moon, springs. Participants: Bob L in white Explorer, Joe B, and Ricardo C.  65F air, about 55F water, sunny, 10kts S-SSW, 2ft 3 sec waves. This was a rock gardening paddle and coasteering run. Marblehead Neck has a typical north shore granite coast with vertical rock faces, a long dumping rocky beach, and multiple small covelets. Through many hours of rock gardening, we have experienced rock features at different water levels and sea conditions. We have also named them and become conversant in a north-of-Boston rock gardening “lingo”. Figure 1 shows a satellite photo of the southern section of the coast including some of these features - the Devil’s Pinball, a triangle of shoals extending from the coast to Tom Moore Rock; the thumping Devil’s Knuckle Cave; the Rhino Horn; and ending at the Food Court rock garden, so named because it provides a diversity of rock faces, slots, and passages.

Figure 1: Named features of the southern section of the M’head Neck coast.

     In pre-paddle discussions we determined that, while temperatures were warm, the predicted SSW to S winds of >10kts with gusting to 20kts suppressed our enthusiasm for coasteering. The water is still a toasty 55F, but exposure to a stiff wind in a wet wetsuit will quickly chill a coasteerer. Yet, figuring we might find lee behind headlands and in covelets, I decided to gear up again for coasteering. That meant 5mm + 3mm farmer johns with a 3mm jacket stuffed into the wetsuits; hoodie, 3mm gloves, and heavy socks inside my boots. Because of planned kayaking before and after the swim, I also had my pfd and spray skirt over the neoprene. The pfd was warming as it pressed the neoprene jacket against the wetsuits; but it impeded my ability to swim in the ocean more than the neoprene alone. Thanks to a suggestion by Joe, I solved that problem with another paddling accessory – namely the paddle!

     We launched at about 11:30am from Grace Oliver Beach into Dolliber Cove. It was immediately clear that the winds and gusting were much less than predicted. The 2ft 3sec waves created active rock gardens along the east side of Brown’s and Gerry Islands. We ran our usual spots along the eastern and southern edges of Brown’s and the outer rocks off Gerry; and then crossed over to M’head Neck. The rock gardening down the coast was surprisingly good despite the short period waves. High water meant mostly running along rock faces and some wider passages. After running the dumping beach, we stopped at the Knuckle Cave and entered to enjoy the thump and reflected back-splash. We continued down to the Food Court and ran the usual slots and passages. I then hauled my boat out onto the back ledge and started a coasteering run by swimming north from the protection of the Food Court outer ledge. Joe and Ricardo kindly offered to act as safety kayakers. As in the case of the previous run off Nahant, the waves were only about 2ft. The difference was that, at 3sec, the short period created a lot of confusing activity near the rocks. It was harder to ride swell along the rock faces as we had done before. Figure 2 is a shot of me swimming as waves impacted the ledges. It was very slow going, but the multiple layers of neoprene definitely kept me warm. Overall, I was in the water for about 45 minutes for this run, and only felt a little chilly on the return paddle in a tailwind. Waves occasionally pushed me against the rock faces. I either felt the drain or saw them coming and was able to turn so my feet were toward the rocks.      

Figure 2: Coasteering the M’head Ledges between the Food Court and the Knuckle Cave.

     I finally reached the Rhino Horn and managed a hand hold on an incoming swell. There was just enough of a step to lift up and then step onto the Horn. This is a landmark feature for us M’head rock gardeners. It was very satisfying to stand on the Horn, rest for a bit, and enjoy the incoming waves. Figure 3 is a shot of me taking a break on the Horn. Much of the granite in this area is very smooth, without barnacles, and has less of the slippery sea weeds and algae. This may be due to the severe wave action, as there is often an intensification of wave amplitudes in this southern stretch of M’head Neck. From the Horn it was obvious that I was not going to make it to the Knuckle Cave in a reasonable time. I had kept my pfd on for warmth, but it slowed swimming considerably. After I jumped back in, Joe suggested I use his spare paddle to speed things up. It was a great idea.

Figure 3: Taking a break on the Rhino Horn. The back ledge of the Food Court is to the left in the figure.

      The run from the Rhino Horn to the Knuckle Cave was much more enjoyable with the paddle. From habit, I swam backwards using a back paddle stroke. The problem with back paddling is that you cannot see ahead to the emerging rocks. Next time, I’ll try the forward paddle-swim. It was still very exciting to be in waves breaking on the rock faces, but also less of a struggle to maneuver in and out from the rock ledges with the paddle. I arrived at the Knuckle Cave and entered paddling forward with feet toward the back of the cave. It was hugely entertaining to ride the waves up to the thump and then flush out on the reflected wave. I emerged to the lip of the cave and threw my paddle to Joe. Getting a hand hold here was not easy. I was careful to orient my body so that when the waves pushed me off the hold, I was swept back into deep water, and not against another rock. After three or four attempts I managed to get a good hold on an incoming wave, hold on as it drained, and then crawl up the face. Looking at the situation afterward, I think I picked the one spot where it was possible to climb up the Knuckles. Figure 4 shows me declaring victory at the crest of the Knuckle Cave.

 

Figure 4: Signaling Joe and Ricardo from the crest of the Knuckle Cave. The Knuckles are to the left in the figure.     

     It was tempting to leap from the crest, but the tide had been running out for a while; and so not at all wise. I retraced my steps back to the lip, waited for an incoming wave, and jumped backward into the water. Before jumping, I was able to look down through the water to where the ledge protruded outward. It was easy to see a good spot to jump. Joe returned his spare paddle. Because of the lengthening time in the water, the lateness of our paddle, and also not to stretch the patience of my safety kayakers; I decided to back paddle all the way to the Food Court. I was still encountering ledges; but tried to steer out from them instead of purposely sweeping up the rock faces. This was a period of hard exertion; but Joe helpfully noted that the exercise probably kept me warm. I finally reached the Food Court, pulled my boat down from the ledge, and returned to rock gardening with Joe and Ricardo.

     Paddling back in single file along the coast, we all found some excellent rock face runs and challenging slots. The 2-3 footers did not have the broad mountains of water you see with long period swell, so the punch was less intense. This allowed for some experimentation on slots that were difficult but with less potential for catastrophic force. On the return to Dolliber, we ran the eastern coast of Brown’s Island and the southern coast of Peachs Point before returning to the Grace Oliver Beach. Figure 5 shows our ground track and Figure 6 has my coasteering run. Total distance of about four nautical miles on the paddle and a mere .28 nautical miles on the run.

Figure 5: Ground track for 11_18_2021 Coasteering paddle.

Figure 6: Coasteering run track for 11_18_2021 coasteering run from the Food Court to Knuckle Cave and back.

Post-Paddle Note: This is the second coasteering/kayak session; and probably the last of the season as temperatures will be dropping. I think coasteering is a viable sport that combines naturally with kayaking. In the Nahant report, I mentioned the need for safety kayakers, and the possibility to reach inaccessible coastline features with kayaks. Today there was a benefit of using a paddle for the swimming segments of the coasteering runs. A coasteering/paddling team could trade off the safety kayak and coasteering roles, and the safety kayaker could also hand off a paddle during the swimming segments of the run. As the air and water warm next season we will be posting more coasteering/kayaking sessions. Thanks to Joe and Ricardo!