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Rope skeg rope


Jim Snyder

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Any suggestions for best rope on a 98 vintage NDK rope skeg? I replaced the braided 2 or 3mm cord that was on it because it seemed almost too thin to catch in the cleat. The thicker braid I replaced it with generates too much friction in the pass through to the skeg box and it is reluctant to deploy. I may just put the skinny one back...

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27 minutes ago, josko said:

You can splice thin line into one the right size for the cleat.

I did think of that but trying to keep it simple. I also thought of getting a new cleat because the thin line works so well otherwise.

2 hours ago, Paul Sylvester said:

Hardware stores sell small engine pull start rope

I've replaced my share of starter ropes but I'm thinking that is more of a cotton product.

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23 hours ago, Jim Snyder said:

 

I've replaced my share of starter ropes but I'm thinking that is more of a cotton product.

Nylon poly weave I believe and they have lasted well for me.

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My 3.5 mm kevlar arrived and it looks perfect. Interestingly but not surprising you can't heat seal the ends. I mixed up a drop of epoxy to seal one end and will do it again after fitting the cord. I should have enough to do three skegs if anyone needs some.

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I tied it in and it seems to be working well. It doesn't have the slight stretch that other cords I have used do which seems to keep tension on the cleat and help keep it in place. I got curious in general about Kevlar and did some reading. Apparently it degrades somewhat in direct sunlight. SKUK has this to say:

Replace old rear rope skeg

Category: Replacements

The rope can be replaced with any rope that works in the cleat. We use 4 mm nylon. Kevlar strengthened produces the best results.

 

We'll see what happens. Heading out to paddle.

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  • 1 month later...

Still having problems with this skeg so I took it all apart. There seemed to be too much friction for the bungee to pull the blade down. There's a 1 3/6 plastic axle that is a friction fit in the slot in the skeg box. The blade has a 1 3/16 hole in it. The question is, is the axle supposed to turn in the slot, or is the blade supposed to rotate on the axle. I decided that if I were designing this thing, I would want the blade to rotate on the axle. It may have done so 22 years ago but now was just too tight. With Tom Bergh's encouragement, I drilled the blade out to 1 1/4. It seems to be working fine in the basement, we'll see what happens.

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Since the plastic used is soft is there any chance you could find a harder plastic flat washer to act as a bearing surface? Would there be room side to side for something added? The surfaces appear rough and something to reduce the resistance? 

  Don't think I have used my explorer skeg years.. Boat edges great. 

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49 minutes ago, Paul Sylvester said:

Since the plastic used is soft is there any chance you could find a harder plastic flat washer to act as a bearing surface? Would there be room side to side for something added? The surfaces appear rough and something to reduce the resistance? 

Drilling out the blade made all the difference. I did try a smaller diameter bungee because I wanted to replace it and that's all I had. It might get caught between the big washer or the blade and the housing and gum things up, we'll see. I don't use it that much either but I might now that I know it's working.

My conversation with Tom Bergh was interesting. He says he loves these old rope skegs for their reliability, especially because they rarely get stuck down. Imagine getting caught in a hard west wind and being unable to turn your boat back into it. Nothing to stop you before Portugal. I suppose if your pull up rope failed the only way to get the skeg up would be to rig some kind of belt or get your friend to try to break it off...

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<Imagine getting caught in a hard west wind and being unable to turn your boat back into it. Nothing to stop you before Portugal>

In that case, Jim, may I suggest the sculling-for-support manoevre?  One stroke is invariably stronger than the other (direction-wise, I mean) and whilst you are lying down on your side, deep in the water, sculling over your head, your boat will then gradually turn <away> from Portugal (or France) and thereafter you may continue on your pleasant way...!!  Oh, and may I also suggest cutting out the entire skeg-box and throwing it all away -- result: no more problem with jamming rope or stones catching in the slot after you have glassed the resulting open hole over...perhaps you will even gain an extra 1/4 knot to your average speed due to your now-improved drag coefficient!  ;^))

Yours, eternally in jest (or am I?), CG (who also doesn't need no stinking skeg, in any case!)

Edited by Pintail
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Steady Andy! I just bought a clear Carbon Kevlar Volan which lives outside and will be paddled in just about everything.  Most boats these days have gelcoat mixed with duratech which has a UV protectant in it, as long as properly cared for no UV damage should occur.  Additionally the occasional wipe down with 303 will protect from UV.

UPDATE:  P&H is not using one of these gelcoat additives listed above, however P&H has assured that polyester gelcoat offers more then enough UV protection. 
I do know a few surfski manufactures, stellar and epic are using these additives, however most of those are a epoxy based system.  Regardless I would be all that concerned with carbon Kevlar being stored in direct sunlight just try to keep it shaded and use 303 every few months.

 

Edited by jonathanoltz
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17 hours ago, jonathanoltz said:

Steady Andy! I just bought a clear Karbon Kevlar Volan which lives outside and will be paddled in just about everything.  Most boats these days have gelcoat mixed with duratech which has a UV protectant in it, as long as properly cared for no UV damage should occur.

Earlier skis and racing kayaks did not have uv protection and it was/is common to see people bag their boats once they get OTW.  edited to be OTW= OFF the water

Edited by Paul Sylvester
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