Ken Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 When I mounted a Brunton 70P on my Scorpio, I bought a little gasket kit. Might not have been needed but it made it a little easier. It came with to length of machine screws so nuts can be point on the back so threading a wood screw into the deck material isn't required. When mounting in a glass boat, anyone know if anything else is needed or can it just be screwed into pilot holes drilled in the mounting location? -K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhabich Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I use machine screws and Nylok nuts rather than self-tapping screws so there won’t be pointy ends to rip dry bags. Could use a blob of silicone instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEL Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 My experience has been it is OK to use the little screws that come with the compass. I have never used the template, but use a manual drill with a very small bit and use the compass itself for a guide. I tend to smear some 3M 4200 or 5200 on the screws, clip the portion of the screws that protrude into the hatch, and cover the screw end with a small dab of epoxy. Never had a problem with leakage or integrity of the installation. Of course you can over engineer it with bolts and nuts, etc. Nothing wrong with that approach, but not sure it is necessary. Ed Lawson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhabich Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 My experience is there’s nothing you can’t over engineer. Either way would work fine. 3M 5200 is great stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhabich Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Whatever you do, use non-magnetic hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David M Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Ken, I agree with all of the sage and learned wisdom above. But, to get a bit more product specific on the treatment of the business/point of the screws. On those compasses I've installed myself on composite P&H boats, I've not used gaskets and have used the supplied screws. For covering the points, I've used the J-B Weld product (see description below) advertised for plumbing applications. It's comes as a two-part solid in a plastic tube. It's very easy to work with by combining the two parts and mixing in your hands (gloves are useful). In my experience its much less messy than applying epoxy, and cures very quickly. At about the consistency of a moderately-chewed piece of bubble gum, it can be divided into amounts for each screw point. applied over the tips, and formed to a smooth texture. I've also gone back before fully cured and smoothed it with a wet finger. Total application time, less than 20 minutes with barely any cleanup required. And... the unused product is a nice addition to a repair kit due to the curing time. WaterWeld™ will plug or seal leaks and patch holes and cracks in almost anything. Ideal for repairing plumbing, fuel tanks, tub and shower, drains, pool and spa, boats and potable water tanks; setup occurs even under water. After curing, it can be drilled, tapped, filed, sanded and painted. WaterWeld™ has a set time of 15-25 minutes and sets hard in one hour. WaterWeld™ cures to an off-white color, is rated at a tensile strength of 1300 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyork Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 I've used small plastic acorn nuts with success: Find these in the "aisle of drawers" (fasteners, doo-hickeys of all sorts) at your local Hardware. Bring one of your screws to determine proper fit. Most members may not be aware of the valuable info in the archives; the following link may provide some (too much) help: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEL Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 One thing not mentioned, but making sure the compass is aligned with lubber line is important. While it is not easy to hold a precise heading while paddling in less than calm water, having the compass properly aligned is important. Even a few degrees off can be a big deal if you do not rely upon a GPS. Confess I get very picky/over engineer this aspect of compass installation. Ed Lawson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pintail Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 <...At about the consistency of a moderately-chewed piece of bubble gum...> I must remember to mix my two-part, solid epoxy by chewing, next time, to compare its consistency with that of chewing gum or bubble gum! Thanks for the suggestion, David! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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