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Experience paddling Vinalhaven ?


Sue H.

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Hi Everyone,

I am interested in gathering people's prior experience paddling Vinalhaven.  I am interested in paddling that area this summer for approximately 3 days.  What can you tell me about the must sees or anything you thin is important.

Thanks, Sue

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Take the ferry. Park your car a few blocks away in public lot, near an all-tides ramp. Not supreme camping options, though I haven't checked out western-most MITA site. Check out the Basin (S entry, between Barton and Dyer may require short portage) and ride out the W mouth on the ebb. Nice paddling in the White I. group and islands N of here. A circumnav (Vheaven only) can be done with an early start (~12h). Haven't done any paddling of Nheaven.

gary

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Sue:

I have been there a couple of times and suggest three days would be a rushed trip unless you use the ferry.  Once I paddled down from the north and camped on one of islands along the chain to North Haven.  Very nice patch of water/island and definitely recommend it.  If you time the tides right you will get a strong push going to and from Vinalhaven.  I have also gotten there by paddling from Stonington which is not bad at all if you pay attention to weather, etc., but it is not a short crossing and once out there you then need to get back and are somewhat at the mercy of the weather.  That said, there are worse places to spend an extra day or so.  The Thoroughfare should be traversed  as long as you are there.  If you look at the chart of the southern and eastern sides of Vinalhaven you will see a multitude of islands which make it a scenic and pleasant area to wander about in.   Ram is a great place as a base to use for exploring the Basin and surrounding islands.  Some of the other MCHT and MITA islands provide nice camping as well.   For example, Little Hens is a neat place for one or two people.  Overall, the area it is just a great place to visit. If I had to choose between wandering off Stonington inside Merchant Row or wandering around the southern end of Vinalhaven, I would take Vinalhaven.  Not the easiest place to paddle to, but I suppose you could say the price of admission is worth it.  Like Gary, have not explored North Haven

 

Ed Lawson

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I've paddled to Vinalhaven a number of times.  Aside from the  ferry, options fall roughly into a shorter (well, 6 miles) crossing from  the west (Rockland/Rockport area) and a longer approach from the north. The approach from the west is fast but challenging, would require good weather and  a strong group of paddlers for the  the six mile crossing across a major channel,. The approach from the north is very long, and a great paddling trip in its own right, basically involves island hopping down to Vinalhaven in a seres of 1-2  mile-ish crossings, so one can enjoy  the islands in north Penobscot Bay (like Butter Island, Bear Island etc) but  this will then either leave you fewer days to explore Vinalhaven or require a longer trip to do so  . If you are committed to three days then ,yes, the ferry is probably the best option.

Edited by PeterB
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I've done two circumnavs.  Once we island hopped from the mainland and did some commando camping bc of limited options.  The second time - with Gary - we took the ferry over.  That was great.  Particularly fun at the end of the trip to have a relaxed ferry ride back to Rockland, watching ghe island recede in the distance.  It's a really beautiful area.  If conditions allow (calm water for the crossing) head over to the Brimstones, island a few miles off of Vinalhaven with The Most Amazing Shiny Black Rocks Everywhere that you ever saw!

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Yes , "The Basin" is a very cool spot:  Four of us paddled into the Basin during a full moon and it was otherworldy, wandering around amidst big dome like rocks exposed near low tide. But seeing the high tide mark on the huge boulders all around  , and realizing that pretty soon the incoming tide  would   be entering through a very small opening,  and we'd be trapped in there for hours,  I said  "we'd better cut this tour short  and  get the hell out of here while we can: " There is no way there isn't some tidal action at the mouth of the Basin.  

 

 

1338772116_TheBasin.thumb.jpg.693c4529fe2c8605fb0594bd4804c598.jpgasin. 

Edited by PeterB
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RE: Basin tidal action

Indeed.  On Ram you  hear this  strange sound of a large waterfall.  Then you look over to the mouth of the Basin see a substantial overfall on the ebb.  It is a very neat place, you just need to mind the tide or have lots of time.

Ed Lawson

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My wife and I have done two circumnavs, both about 7 days last year and the year before. The first one from Bakeman's beach on Cape Rosier, where we went over to Dark Harbor Islesboro to stay with friends, and down from there to Ram in Hurricane Ridge, then Hurricane, spending 2 nights on Hurricane with a day trip into Vinalhaven. That time it was quite spicy (wind and se-wise) on the south end of Vinalhaven Island, so we didn't make it out to the Brimstones, and just went straight up and around the east side of Vinalhaven, cutting into that bay (can't remember the name of it)  and various narrow passages to reach North Haven village from due south, then carrying out through LIttle Thorofare (stayed on a ITA Island there the size of a postage stamp) and then up to the East Barred Islands. Spectacular trip.

The second trip we set out from Stonington, Went over to Isle au Haut, down the west side to Duck Harbor,  then straight over to the Brimstones - which was a slightly dodgy 5 mile openwater crossing, by the Bandies and Saddleback Ledge, but we fortunately had a blissfully sunny day with calm seas - that was the one stretch I was anxious about, and prepared with a plan B to backtrack up Isle au Haut if necessary. Again we stayed 2 nights on Hurricane and explored The Basin on our day without loaded boats. The Basin was quite cool, and on the incoming tide had quite a bit of current going in, with a nice little rapid you could kind of surf the wave and practice ferrying back and forth across the current like riverboaters do. But like has been said, you've got to get the timing right to get out - we end up portaging over the road to get over the narrow exit at the SW corner of The Basin,and went in to explore Vinalhaven inthe afternoon. The next day we then went up the Hurricane Sound in a blind fog with incoming tide pushing us north, went into Northaven, had a great lunch, and went on through Little Thorofare and around to Mullen Head where there is a campsite, that technically you need to get permission from the Northaven Town Clerk to stay at, which requires a recommendation from a resident to get - bit tricky, but nice spot to camp with great picnic tables. We then went up to Horseshoe cove on Cape Rosier and then down the Eggemoggin Reach, visited Wooden Boat School, stayed on Sellers Island (a MITA place), and then back to Stonington. 

I'd have to say it's a spectacular area to paddle, because it's mostly protected from the open ocean, lots of islands, and lots of MITA islands, and more MCHT islands if you can figure out which ones they are (they're not all listed in the MITA book unfortunately); with the occasional fog, and currents usually not more than about 1.0 - 1.5 knots (except going into The Basin) which is enough so that you want and need to plan to always go with the current.  I'd strongly recommend the 7-day option if you could swing it, as it takes so much effort to get there, and it feels great to get there under your own steam.

 

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Also, I think I missed saying thanks to Peter & Prudence.  I may have questions going forward and greatly appreciate all the feedback.  I would like to journey for more days, yet I may have to consider a shorter trip. ??

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lots of great experience above!  One more crossing route that I don't think I've seen mentioned:  
Depart Stonington town dock; paddle up the west side of the island to a small MITA Island (I think it's called "The Fort") and cross to Northhaven from there.  
There's less big-boat traffic here than in East Penob Bay, and the open water section is only 3 miles.  On the other hand, you're farther from the Hurricane Sound area.

Don't miss dinner at Nebo Lodge on Northhaven if you want to indulge in a "civilized" meal at some point in your trip.  Awesome cuisine and great cocktails, a few blocks walk from the town dock.

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