Brian Nystrom Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 27 minutes ago, Inverseyourself said: Nasty spot you were in, Brian. That’s also why I practice my 1/2 (Euro) paddle rolls during pool sessions. Don’t you just hate it when you hear the crunchies!? Yeah, it was one of the few times I was genuinely concerned about getting hurt and/or wrecking my boat. I'm used to leaving "offerings to the gelcoat gods" on rocks, but when things start to crack and crunch, it's a bit more concerning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Back to the kayak. Nylon arrived from https://www.skinboats.org/store but I have been working on finishing up what I can't reach after the skin is on. Test fitting footpegs: Installing blocking for these http://topkayaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_133&products_id=1034 deck line fittings: Footpegs installed: Trying not to obsess about the added weight of everything I do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 There seemed to be various opinions as to whether the fabric can be stretched to accommodate the rise at stem and stern but I decided to sew a "sock" in each end. The cross stitch finish of this seam later will also add protection in these areas. Setting the stern sock 3" short allows pulling the fabric to stretch that 3" before starting to sew the center seam: I decided to use the welting cord method from the Skin Boat School (https://www.skinboats.org/weltingcord to sew the center seam Bow finished: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Deck seams complete: The stems needed to be trimmed and cross stitched: Cockpit staged up for stitching: Ready to iron: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Hull coated with the Skinboat Store's two part polyurethane http://shop.skinboats.com/2-Part-Urethane-Coating-for-Kayak-Skin-goop1.htm : Deck coated: Not sure if I'll mix up one more coat or if I'm ready for outfitting. Ready to order some deck lines but can't decide on color. I'm thinking maybe these: https://www.paracordplanet.com/red-750-type-iv-w-double-reflective-tracers/ . There's bungee available in the same color without the reflective tracer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Foster Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Standard paracord stretches considerably when wet. I used some 550 cord for grab lines on a fishing SUP and wouldn't recommend it for kayak deck lines. Mine stretched, faded quickly in the sun, and was very thin (painful) compared to standard deck lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyork Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 https://forums.paddling.com/discussion/2936670/any-opinion-on-who-sells-a-nice-reflective-deck-line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 Thanks for the input on deck lines. I spent a lot of time trying to sort out the different diameters and strengths available. I ordered some 550 but if I don't like it I'll find another use for it and order something else. I don't really care about reflectivity from the deck lines. I am less than enthusiastic about the finish I achieved with the two part polyurethane although I think it was more a result of inexperience than the material, which is amazing. It's claimed to be 100% solids with no vehicle and is absolutely odorless. Probably would have come out better if I had talked my wife into applying it. Seat, backband, and maybe foam heel rest are next if anyone has suggestions. I plan to drive the boat up to http://www.topkayaker.net/index.html to try some things out. Too bad Lake Ossipee is frozen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Nystrom Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Don't even bother installing Nylon decklines; they're a nightmare and you'll just end up replacing them. Get some good quality polyester cord and use that. It doesn't stretch and it doesn't expand and go slack when it gets wet. It's also much more resistant to UV damage. If you haven't paddled an SOF before - and you certainly haven't paddled this SOF before - doing it outdoors in the middle of winter is not the best idea. It's quite likely that the boat will be much less stable than anything you've paddled previously, which makes an unintentional capsize much more likely. If anyone is holding pool sessions near you, that's the best place to try the boat initially. You obviously won't be able to paddle far, but you'll get a feel for the boat and discover any tweaks that you need to make to the outfitting to help you control it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 Cautions appreciated Brian. I do have pool sessions available not too far away and was planning on that. Also prior to a real trip I have to design and build the barge I'm going to have to tow to carry all the stuff that doesn't fit in this boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 Cordage arrived and I had miswritten, I didn't buy 550, I bought 750 because it was 5mm. Still I don't like it and will be getting something else. I really like the bungee stock that came though. it's thicker than normal at .25". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Greenland storm paddle roughed out: Ready for finish sanding: First trip outside on the way to buy outfitting: Seat, backband, heelrests, and bungee installed, only waiting for deck lines: Ready for a maiden voyage at the Haverhill pool session tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Nystrom Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Bungee cord really isn't very effective at retaining things on a kayak deck. Traditional Greenland style lines with sliders work much better, especially when your getting whacked by waves or surf. Unless you clip items to the bungee, you'll lose them. Even then, they can end up flopping around and creating other problems. I'll bet that the first time you experience an on-water "yard sale", you'll change your deck rigging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Brian, as always thanks for your input. I guess I'm just going with what I know. With the non traditional hardware I'm using it will be easy to change rigging if I don't like how it's working. The bungee I have though is really tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Nystrom Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 It's not a question of toughness, it's the fact that it stretches which is the problem. The force of water over the deck easily overpowers bungee cord and the items underneath come loose. The other issue you'll encounter is that even good quality bungee cord deteriorate relatively quickly and has to be re-tensioned, until it gets to the point where you're forced to replace it. Even on my fiberglass boats, I've converted to hard lines with sliders to tension them, since they hold items securely under almost any conditions. I do have one strand of bungee running across the foredeck to use to temporarily hold items (gloves, hood, etc.) when I don't need them. However, I understand that the are not secure, so I don't leave them there for long and don't use the bungee at all if conditions are rough. Running cords and sliders is easy, though you will have spend a little time to make your own sliders. I imagine you've got plenty of short scrap from your keelson and stringers that would be suitable. It's just a matter of cutting them to length, drilling a couple of holes and rounding the edges. The only critical dimension is the difference in distance between the holes on your sliders and the mounting points for your cords. The greater the difference, the greater the tightening effect when you push the sliders toward the gunwales. I don't recall the dimensions I used, but I can always measure them for you when you're ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) Thanks Brian, if I decide to change I'll want to see how they work on a boat sometime. Got to try the boat out in the pool today and was overall very pleased although I have a few issues to work on. I initially had some trouble rolling it although that was more lack of experience than anything with the boat. Thanks to Jonathan for helping sort out what I was doing. Here's Bob Levine completing a roll: Edited January 27, 2018 by Jim Snyder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Snyder Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Perimeter lines installed so project essentially complete. About 7 weeks start to finish but I really didn't keep track of hours or expenses. I still have concerns about flotation and self and assisted rescues so no cold water or solo trips until those issues are sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyork Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Good on you Jim! You should be so proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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