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  1. I’ve been using the Garmin 78scx for about the last 7 years. When in use, it’s in a clear drybag attached to my sprayskirt. I keep the GPS in the DryPak bag along with spare batteries and a grease pencil for making notes on the deck. To absorb humidity, I put a small handful of rice (about the size of a small lemon) packed into an old stocking. Squeezing the air out of the DryPak (before closing) helps to minimize the buildup of humidity on the clear vinyl window. Despite all these efforts, some moisture will always appear inside the clear bag. Using a hot glue gun, I added a few 1/2” webbing loops to the front deck of the sprayskirt. Attach the DryPak with keychain carabiners for daytrips. Be sure to have the drybag opening facing aft and not forward- in case you get out of the boat with the DryPak open, the GPS will not fall out. For multi-day trips, I sometimes use plastic zip ties instead of carabiners. Be aware, it is NOT ideal to have these added loops and little carabiners on the sprayskirt as they could be a possible point of entanglement while getting in or out of the boat. The hot glue has never failed and generally will outlast the skirt. The DryPack lasts about two seasons, but as yet, I haven’t found one of better quality that also has the attachment points. To improve the waterproof seals on the GPS battery compartment, I lightly coat the rubber gasket with o-ring grease I get from the dive shop or a plumbing supply store. It’s not a perfect system, but it does work fairly well. Sunglasses with the “reader” lens along the bottom help to read the tiny screen on the Garmin. Here’s a link to the DryPak: DRY PAK Multi-Purpose Case, Clear, 6 x 9
  2. Looking forward to it! I’ve never paddled Lake George l have RSVP’d on the calendar. Thanks- Jim
  3. I've got this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9OU30Q?psc=1 some pretty great features, blazingly sharp, line cutter hook, an amazing squeeze lock system that won't let it come loose during rescue practice. And, it comes with bolts and hardware to attach to PFD shoulder straps. It's also made in titanium, but I've got the SS model shown in the link. Good luck, be safe!
  4. I had a way to slippery Werner C/F paddle. I solved the problem by using a maroon colored 3M Scotchbrite pad. That is about the same as 400 grit sandpaper. I masked off the area I DIDN'T want roughened, and then once the tape is removed, it looked like it was done by the factory. The hardest part was figuring out what area needed to b done due to the variable hand placements. In my case, I did about 10" in from the throat on each side. Good luck!
  5. Way better than using stickers (which often don't stick so well to the textured interior surfaces of composite kayaks), is to write your contact info with a Sharpie in the cockpit floor, just in front of the seat AND on the inside of each of your hatch covers. If your hatch covers are rubber, you can contact cement a 4-5" diameter cicle of mini-cell foam to the inside of the covers and then write your contact info on that. That way, should a cover come off in the water it will float AND should you loose it, there's a chance someone will find it and contact you. Good luck! 4r
  6. Getting back to the original subject- I recently installed the conical wrist gaskets. Took about a 1/2 hour. I got them from Mythic Drysuits in Maine. Had them in 2 days for about $30 including shipping. I've only used it two times but they're totally comfortable. I have smallish wrists but I order the LARGE and I trimmed two rings off and have about 6 rings left. The latex "seems" to b a little bit thicker than the original Kokatat gaskets. We'll have to see how they hold up, but most important- they're comfortable!! Good luck! 4R
  7. There was no problem using it during the last summer. Even with out of state plates! It was kayak useable even at a very low tide. Good luck!
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