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Kurt, I see in your posting you plan to paddle in Alaska within the next few years. I hope you might consider exploring Prince William Sound. David and I may be arranging with the NSPN Board of Directors to present our PWS experience at a TBA location and a TBA date/time. If the presentation occurs, I hope you will be able to attend. Kurt, if all goes as planned I hope to return to PWS next summer and continue exploring. By the time you are ready to travel to Alaska, I should have knowledge that may be helpful to you. Hope to see you out on the water soon. Warren

Ed, Yes, it was a great trip in many ways. We were each responsible for our breakfasts, lunches and snacks. It meant planning, packing, preparing and clean-up. For the dinners, we each were responsible for two, except Ryan was reponsible for three. That meant planning, carrying and cooking. We helping each other with some dinner prep as needed and the cook was never responsible for the clean-up on their nights. We had a total of four stoves. Beth and David both had JetBoils. Ryan and I both brought MSR Whisperlites. Ryan's used white gas and mine used canisters. We had a nice degree of redundancy in our plan. It was fine cooking for five when using both a JetBoil and a Whisperlite. We had two pots, a 2.5L and a 1.5L as well as a fry pan. We all rather enjoyed the process. If my memory serves me, I believe the longest crossing was 3.0 nautical miles. David is the custodian of the trip metrics and may help correct my statement. The PWS does experience patchy fog, but we did not encounter anything that was concerning regarding fog. Except when leaving Shoup Bay, we did not encounter much current and simply used ranges to adjust our course when we felt we were being set. We used the GPS for collecting metrics but not as a navigation aid. Although I had my GPS with both waypoints and an embedded nautical chart of PWS, I never had to use it during the trip. I discovered that PWS, like Alaska, is a very large place.

NSPN Community, In this, the final installment, we make our way back to Whittier with an overnight at Decision Point State Marine Park. I remember feeling sad about arriving at the end of our journey together. At the same time, I realized our greatest achievement had been the creation of lasting friendships. I hope you have enjoyed following along with us as we attempted to help you gain a deeper understanding of Prince William Sound, a kayaker’s paradise. Warren Paddling to Passage Canal. View of College Fiord. Resting after the crossing. Cheers with beers from Ryan's buddies. Porcupine buddy at Decision Point camp site. Bedtime stories read by David. More buddy beer. Bedtime stories read by Beth. Decision Point camp site. Whittier weather. Return to civilization. The ever-present bald eagle. Paddling to the take out. Buddies at the take out. Celebration at the take out. Celebration in Anchorage.

For this installment in the story, pictures were taken at Axel Lind, The Dutch Group, Perry and Culross Islands. That section of PWS is rich in wildlife. We saw whales, puffins, kittiwakes, sea lions,sea otters, river otters and black bears to name just a few. The landscape and rock formations are stunning. In reviewing the photographs taken, I selected a few photos of the buddies and the landscape for your viewing pleasure. As you click on the landscape photos to enlarge them, you will note where they were taken and/or what is being viewed as noted in the lower left hand corner. Enjoy! The Buddies! The Stunning Landscape of Prince William Sound! Next up.........The last installment and the realization of our greatest achievement................. Warren

As we launched from Elf Point we could see the fog surrounding Glacier Island had lifted and we set our heading to arrive at a pocket beach in the northeast corner of the island. There were no boats or ice bergs to concern us. Our concern center on the length of the crossing, approximately 3 miles, and the sea state which approximated 2 to 3 foot seas. A little bounce, which in most cases would not be concerning, but for us the length of the bounce would prove to be tedious at times. The team handled the crossing very well. As we arrived on Glacier Island we unanimously agreed to seek the southern route. During our paddle along the south side, the rock formations were stunning. Before we knew it, we could hear the sound of sea lions. Hundreds and hundreds of sea lions for over one mile of the coastline. Now we all know the Marine Mammal Protection Act states we keep away at least 300 feet. Surprisingly, many of the younger sea lions were delighted to see us and would gather in large pods of 20 to 30 and come out to welcome us. We jokingly said to each other, does the protection act address the need for the mammals to keep a safe distance from us? These sea lions were huge and the large number in the pods worried us. We all focused on having a good low brace ready, but did not need to worry. I kept my camera in my pfd and focused on paddling ahead. For over a mile they played with us and we could hear them breathing heavily behind each kayak. It was an amazing experience! We passed by a section of the coastline called Cave Point which had dozens of caves similar to the one below. The coastline was stunning and time flew by as we were mesmerized by what we saw. We finally paddled past the sea lion colonies and discovered seal colonies. Like the sea lions, the seals would gather in large groups and come out to see us. They kept further away, but seemed very friendly and curious. I was able to take a few photographs. On most days we would go in search of fresh water streams to collect and filter water. The trees were also fascinating as some would have moss hanging from the branches. In some areas of PWS there would be no fishing signs since that indicated a salmon stream and would frequently be a great location for a bear sighting. We would avoid collecting water from those streams. Once we arrived at Granite Point, we took advantage of the fine weather and warm stones to dry all our wet gear. It was amazing how fast everything dries on warm stones! Our team had arranged to rotate responsibility for group dinner meals. The Granite point dinner was my responsibility. With the fine weather, we decided to eat out on the rocks. It was a fine evening! The group shelter and bear hangs. We pack up to leave Granite Point in search of whales and bears. Next up……….The journey continues into the center islands of PWS…………….Every single day a major “Wow Factor” I am on sensory overload!! Warren and another selfie. The beard continues to grow!

Ed, Regarding your question related to distances and whether or not it is calculated in statute or nautical, I assume you were referencing the draft trip plan. The mileage on the draft plan were very rough estimates obtained via Google Earth. I assumed it was statute miles. The good news is David was operating his GPS during the trip and has access to specific mileage data. I remember how we celebrated as a team when David informed us that we had achieved the 100 mile mark on our journey. Seems we were all realizing many small accomplishments throughout the trip. Regarding your question about how Ryan related to the draft trip plan, Ryan was a superb guide for this trip. His leadership style was just what our team needed. He enriched the original draft trip plan in some many ways. I would seek his guidance on all future PWS trips in a heart beat. In many ways I see myself as a seeker of knowledge as well as a sea kayaker. I like being actively involved in trip planning and execution. Ryan’s style of guidance works very well with my style and we could sense the alignment. For an extended paddling trip on PWS, I see the need for a specific set of core competencies which relate to four categories. The categories are; 1. Self awareness and skill for land based activities, such as efficiently packing and unpacking your hatches. 2. Self awareness and skill for water based activities, such as a rock solid forward stroke. 3. Group awareness and skill for land based activities, such as group meals, bear hangs and collecting water. 4. Group awareness and skill for water based activities, such as safely executing a long crossing. There are many more examples, but this might give you the basic idea. I hope this is helpful. Warren

Pru, First off, the weather in PWS appeared quite different from what I was used to in Maine. The rain was heavy and constant and gear would get saturated. I had purchased a pair of rain pants made from "Event" cloth similar to that found in Event dry bags which many of us own. I assumed it would serve me well and it did not. Immediately after the trip I purchased a pair of bibs from an Anchorage outfitter which I believe wil be a better choice for my next paddle on PWS. Other members of the team had gear failures as well. One thing to remember is the need for a very good four season free standing tent with a tarp over it to minimize the water saturation. I attempted to use my tarp to cover three tents and that did not work well. As I was packing to leave Elf Point, my tent was three times heavier due to the water saturation. Also, I know many of us like to pack a cotton pillow case to stuff with dry clothing and use as a pillow. Forget that approach real fast. All cotton materials get damp, wet and do not dry. I could go on and on, but this discussion might be best held for a face-to-face presentation at a later date. Warren

NSPN Community, Hey David, good to hear your business trip is going well and you will be back this weekend! Let me take a moment and step out of the storyline to talk about group safety. The Spot device was a very helpful safety tool and I know the loved ones we left behind were enjoying the opportunity to follow us along on our journey. Please also remember we had built into the plan additional safety measures. Ryan was carrying a satillite phone with buddies who could bring a high speed rescue boat for emergency evacuation 24/7. We each, of course, carried VHF radios with the ability to call in a mayday. As a team we took our group safety very serious. Even though emergency evac was available at any time, I sensed that David and I saw ourselves as proud NSPN paddlers who would be successful and complete our journey! Warren

I can imagine the gentle reading must be thinking this is going to be a very long trip report. Not to worry, I will pick up speed as the journey continues! We had weathered a classic PWS storm and in many ways it could have been a lot worse. Some low pressure systems stall over the Sound and heavy rains can continue for 5 or 6 days. We had less than 48 hours of rain. During that time we learned how critical gear can fail. For me, kayak camping is a passion and I am always seeking places around the world where I am challenged to succeed. Alaska, and specifically PWS, is very special since it is the northern most reach of the temperate rain forest. The rains can be heavy and prolonged and yet you can be within a few miles of the freezing cold water and air from glaciers in the fiords. Moisture management and body temperature control is critical and very complicated to manage, but the rewards are worth the effort. We had spent time at Elf Point bonding together as a team but now it was time to get back in our boats and experience something very special. David paddling past Heather Island on his way to the Ice Berg Fields. Our first sighting of the ice berg field in Columbia Bay. Columbia Bay with a view of a portion of the glacier in the background. David as he paddles to a get a closer look. Beth getting a closer look. Buddies getting a closer look. Bergs and David. Some of the ice bergs were covered with silt but others were the most amazing clear blue color. My camera does not do justice to the beauty we saw. The ice is amazing. Photo op time! Buddies and Bergs. It was now time to leave Elf Point and begin exploring the center of PWS. For me, that is where the “crown jewels” reside. An area that is visited by very few paddlers and where the wildlife is abundant. It was the main reason why I came to Alaska. We would need to complete a 3 mile crossing to Glacier Island which is located in the left side of the photo and covered in fog. We hoped to paddle along the south side of the island, but would need to observe the sea state during the crossing. The storm had kicked up the seas, but now they seemed quiet and inviting. Time would tell. The eagle was back and that was a good sign for me. I sensed Mother Nature had been pleased with our efforts and now we would be rewarded. Next up…….. Glacier Island and the rewards are many………………. Warren and a selfie

Note: One of our gentle readers reminded me that a software program exists that can reset pictures to align with the horizon. Sadly my PC is not currently equipped with the software. I am in the process of acquiring the item and hope to have it operational soon. Now back to the story and the race to Elf Point……….. Those who follow my adventures remember that Mother Nature has a habit of noticing when I am out on the water and frequently throws me a curve ball just to see my reaction. Apparently, she saw me preparing to leave Shoup Bay. The weather forecast was predicting a good size storm that would blow through the Sound with gale force winds at up to 55 knots. We all know it is not easy to hide from gale force winds unless you happen to find a mountain to hide behind. The mountain we sought was on Point Freemantle some 25+ miles away. Could we make it safely around the hazardous Point and on to Elf Point in time? Ryan went into high alert mode and I could sense how critical decision making would flow over the next several hours. We would take it one step at a time. As we paddled from Valdez Bay to Valdez Narrows we would pass by several waterfalls flowing off the mountains. We saw a water taxi bring passengers back to Valdez from Columbia Bay. That day the ships were setting their nets to gather pink salmon. We would paddle by the entrance to Sawmill Bay since that camp site would not offer the protection we sought. The fishing fleet was fully engaged as they rushed to collect the salmon prior to the storm. A large tender ship was within the fleet to off-load their cargo. A brief rest was taken on one of the pocket beaches in the Narrows as we reassessed the status of the team. We were all good-to-go! My camera went securely into my PFD and I went into high alert mode leaving the Valdez Narrows and entering into Valdez Arm. Over the course of our trip we would pass through five separate NOAA weather forecast zones each a little different due to the mountain formations. That did not include the glacial fiords which seemed to have their own weather pattern. We arrived at Elf Point well after 9:00PM and began the process of setting up our tents and tarps. The group shelter/kitchen was located away from the tents. The bear hangs were set near the group shelter. The boats were secured for the night. An eagle overlooked our camp site. A water collection tarp was set out. Storm cags, rain pants, waterproof boots were essential gear. We would forego dinner in place of sleep as we turned in around 11:30PM. It had been a full day, and we could feel the shelter from the wind. We had performed well as a team. The following day would be a day of rest. We hunkered down for a day and a half as the storm headed inland. As the storm cleared, we could see large ice bergs in the three mile crossing to Glacier Island. They had been blown out of Columbia Bay. Next up…………Paddling in an Ice Berg Playground………… Warren

Jason, We definitely made modifications in the draft trip plan. All for the better! As further installments in the story are introduced, the modifications will be evident. Camp site within the center of PWS are different from the edges. There is no reference document which can guide you, especially when the tidal range approaches 16 feet. Our trip was planned for the period when the moon was in perigee and the tidal range near peak. Camping in PWS has extra concerns that need to be factored into the activities performed each day. You need to locate and filter water, prepare bear hangs, erect tarps over tents and prepare the group shelter for bug management, etc. Most of my days would begin at 5:30AM and end at 11:30PM. Darkness would occur from 1:30PM to 4:30PM. So I would not need to work during darkness. The important piece to remember is you are working out straight for 18 hours with approximately 6 hours of sleep. A great deal of the time was spent with land based activities. Also, when you are on the water paddling, you are in a world of sensory overload with so much to see. You need to take time to observe your world. The geology alone is stunning! I saw very few mosquitoes. It was mostly black flies and no-see-ems. You need a well planned bug management program since you can not be selective in your camp sites in the center section. You have to take what you get which could be a camp site next to a lagoon. We had three of the 11 camp sites filled with bugs. Actually, we felt that was damn good! Also, many of the camp sites are not "preconstructed", they are "wilderness" in design. So you cram in multiple tents and appreciate the value of ear plugs. You also need to be very careful with selecting a potential site that is frequented by bears. All these challenges can add up to a long day if you also plan to cover miles. It is a delicate balancing act at times and well worth the effort. Hope this helps. Warren

NSPN Community, For those who might be planning a kayak camping trip to Prince William Sound, the attached document regarding the Alaska State Marine Parks might be helpful. Alaska State Marine Parks.doc Also, to prepare yourself for the next installment in the story, it might be helpful to review the attached Draft Trip Plan for Days 3 and 4. Like all good draft plans, flexibility is needed to adjust for weather. We would discover the importance of that rule and work together for our group safety in the next installment. Alaska Trip Rev2.pdf Hey Kate, thank you for reading along! I may never achieve your skill in kayak expeditioning, but at least I no longer see myself as a "wannabe". I am still very much a work-in-progress, but I am getting out there and getting it done! Warren

NSPN Community, Between sections of this story, I plan to jump in with a few behind the scenes comments to help communicate many of the very special feelings and events that were occurring as well as future plans. Clearly, Alaska can be a land of extremes. The state license plate calls Alaska, “The Last Frontier”. Although kayaking in Alaska and Prince William Sound is not for everyone, I believe it is truly a kayaker’s paradise. It combines awe inspiring landscape, abundant wildlife and very few people. With proper planning and execution a kayaker can achieve the balance between safety, comfort and fun. This trip accomplished that goal. I am excited about telling this story for two reasons; 1. We know the trip was very special and our experiences need to be told to help others learn about PWS. 2. I seek to return to Prince William Sound next year and explore additional sections. I hope one or two paddlers from NSPN will seek to join in on the 2015 trip and work with me to learn how to kayak PWS with safety and style. Warren

And the story continues............... We paddle by a portion of the Valdez fishing fleet as we head to Shoup Bay. For me, a bald eagle sighting signifies good luck and a reminded that I need to focus my skills on providing protection for the team. Throughout the trip I saw bald eagles every day. Our team traveled well on the water, and took advantage of stretch and bio breaks as needed. We also had a very good sense of group awareness as we frequently looked around and checked in on each other. Ryan was looking carefully at my reaction as I rounded a bend and saw Shoup Glacier for the first time. Wow! The Shoup Glacier resides within the Shoup Bay State Marine Park. We arrive at our camp site Ryan had made a reservation for our team to use the Moraine Cabin for our first night. The view from the Moraine cabin and one of my favorite pictures. The cabin would provide an excellent shelter. It even had an outhouse. Shoup Bay is also home to a Kittiwake Rookery with hundreds of nests. A picture of the Kittiwakes with the glacier in the background. Another one of my favorite photographs. We noticed a large hole in the face of the glacier and proceeded to investigate. Turned out the hole was created by a large and fast moving river that flowed into Shoup Bay from the glacier. Amazing! We landed on the shore and walked over to take a closer look. The glacial ice contained vivid blue colors. We ready the boats for departure wearing our insect head nets. We encountered many no-see-ums and black flies at Shoup Bay. A good insect head net is an essential piece of gear in Alaska. The water in Shoup Bay contained sediment from the river flowing out of the glacier and was an amazing shade of blue/grey. Next up, Mother Nature takes an interest in our activities................ Warren

David Mercer and I recently returned from a 12 day kayak camping trip to explore Prince William Sound, Alaska from Valdez to Whittier. We will each be adding content to this thread in an effort to help you gain a better understanding of PWS and the beauty we discovered. I will also be weaving into the story how the adventure impacted my view of kayak camping, trip planning and paddling in Alaska. David and I began planning this trip months in advance. In many ways it would greatly exceed any trips we have previously completed. We would discover the journey would test our processes, gear and resolve. Now, let’s begin…… We arrived safely in Anchorage on July 4, 2014 and added content to our gear bags with a visit to the REI store the following day. Our team of five paddlers assembled on July 6 to test pack the rental boats and finalize our planning. We identified a journey of at least 130 miles which would span 12 days. It was to be the longest trip to date for each of us. On the morning of July 7, we began the drive from Anchorage to Whittier along Turnagain Arm. Here is where my camera would begin to document our trip with over 600 photos. Luckily for the gentle reader, I will not be posting all my photos! Our drive would pass by the Begich,Boggs Visitor Center located in Girdwood which is partially visible in the lower right corner. When the building was originally built, it had a fine view of the Portage glacier which has now receded and is no longer visible from the Center. Along the way we viewed a mother moose and her two young calves. We also encountered some of the humor and independent nature of Alaskans. We are lined up waiting to enter the 2.5 mile long tunnel to Whittier. Our kayaks arrived in Whittier with the Begich Tower in the background. The Tower is where most of the year round residents of Whittier live. Large water flow off the Whittier glacier behind the Begich Tower. David is happy in spite of the dreary weather. The locals have a saying, “The Weather is Shittier in Whittier!” The Chenega, a high speed ferry from Whittier to Valdez, is ready and waiting for our arrival. From the deck of the Chenega, you see many glaciers in the trip to Valdez. I was able to see several of our proposed camping sites during the trip, such as Axel Lind and the Dutch Group. The beauty of the Chugach mountain range was breathtaking. The entrance to Sawmill Bay is at the center of this photo. That was proposed to be our second camping site. However, Mother Nature had other ideas for us when she delivered up a large storm with gale force winds. More on that later in the story! Our happy team plus one arrives at the B&B in Valdez on July 7 where we would spend the night prior to an early launch the next morning. The team members are: Ryan, Michael, Ryan’s son Griffin, David, Warren and Beth. Ryan’s wife Sherrill, who took the photo, accompanied us to Valdez. She and Griffin would return to Whittier the next day. A celebration meal at Oldtown Burgers in Valdez took place on July 7. Note the heavily overcast sky. That would be a frequent occurrence during our travels which made for pleasant paddling in a dry suit. Packing the boats at the launch site. Note all the Ikea bags! Two views from the launch site. The oil storage tanks that hold the oil coming from the North Slope and a small portion of the Valdez fishing fleet. David proclaiming, “I am ready”! The 2014 Prince William Sound Paddling Team Photograph. None of us could have imagined at that time how much we would enjoy each other’s company and how much the trip would enhance our lives. To be continued……………… Warren

Prior to our trip to Alaska, this thread generated a fair amount of interest in bears. More specifically, the black and brown bears which live in the Chugach National Forest. As requested, our goal was to observe and photograph these bears in their natural habitat. We did see a total of three black bears at three separate locations within our journey in Prince William Sound. Our best sighting was on the west side of Culross Island, approximately two miles north of Applegate Island within the Culross Passage. At the time we were down wind of the black bear and very quietly paddling along the shoreline. The bear was feeding on shore greens and berries and did not appear to see us out on the water. We drifted to with 100 feet of the shore. We observed the bear for over 15 minutes. At no point did we or the bear appear to feel threaten. The way in which we conducted ourselves felt rewarding. The two attached pictures were my effort at capturing the moment. Enjoy! Additional pictures and narrative will appear in the Trip Report section under a new heading over the next several days/weeks. Stay tuned for more! Warren

Hey, David and I are now back in Boston! Mission accomplished! Warren

Jason, Yes, Kokatat has a lot of great options and I loved my dry suit and my Storm Cag! Both are essential in PWS. When you paddle in the fiords with glaciers the air and water can be very cold. It can resemble a separate weather zone. But five miles out, you can have the "Alaskan Bake "! It requires careful planning and flexibility, but is worth the effort! We were constantly checking the VHF weather forecast since our journey spanned five separate NOAA forecast zones and that did not include the glacial fiords which would have their own wind speed and direction. PWS is a weather guys dream come true. I was is heaven! Warren

Jason, Hey, thank you for the great tarp link. We discovered a tarp over the tent is important. It can rain very hard for a long time and the tarp can help! Do not rule out the idea even if you have a great tent! Trust me, it is important!! For the group shelter/kitchen, rain and bug management requires a different approach. We used a custom made shelter with screen panels that was superb. With a regular tarp arrangement the bugs would carry you away in minutes. That environment requires a new set of competences. Warren

Liz, Joyce, Jason and Andy, Thank you all for your kind words! Last night our exploration team was out to celebrate at a great restaurant. Life long friendships have begun and planning for the 2015 exploration of PWS are well underway. I just return from a trip to a store which sells gear for surviving in extreme wet weather. I have begun assembling gear for the next trip. Prince William Sound is a land of extremes. Most kayaker only explore the edges around Whittier and Valdez. For me, the great treasures lay deep within the center. To get there and back, your gear must handle gale force winds and driving rain. As we hunkered down on Elf Point we quickly learned what gear served us well and what does not! Tonight David and I will catch the red eye to Boston. Warren

Rob, I am open to any suggestions that might work for our club. I will add, the learning that occurred for me during the 12 days exceeded two years of kayak camping. I found an opportunity to grow my understanding of self and group awareness both on land and on the water. With this knowledge, I felt like a member of a nomadic tribe that was migrating the 140+ miles across the PWS while feeling one with our environment. It was a wonderful feeling. I will also add, in PWS it helps to have a carefully assembled collection of gear and processes, as well as a group of core competences. Each day you may be collecting water, erecting bear hangs and engaging in bug management. When done correctly, you derive great joy! There is much more to share! You would have been in heaven during this trip!! Warren

Dave, You're on! Beware I have mutated into my Jeremiah Johnson character with a full beard and a mellow demeanor to match. The PWS paddling buddies want me to keep the beard as is. Not sure yet about the beard, but love the mellow feeling. Warren

Katherine, No bears or paddlers were harmed. We were quiet observers of our environment. We enjoyed watching the wildlife interact with their world and felt it was a privilege to be there. It is amazing how special it can feel to be quietly paddling along while observing sea lions, sea otters, bears, puffins, seals, and many more. PWS is amazing with a "Wow Factor" every single day. I was on sensory overload during most of the trip and can not wait to get back!! Warren

David and I just completed our exploration of Prince William Sound, Alaska from Valdez to Whittier. The trip was amazing! David took notes to build the trip report while I took photos. Over 500 hundred photos! Hope to select a few of the best for your viewing pleasure. Yes Jason, there are photos of the black bears we encountered! In Anchorage now and not flying to Boston until Tuesday. It should take us a couple weeks to build the report, but perhaps I can post a black bear photo once I return to Boston. I am already planning another 12 day exploration in PWS in 2015. I have fallen in love with Alaska! Warren

Jason, We had a successful day here in bear territory! A black one for David and a brown one for me! Warren