PeterB

I had signed up for this trip on the registration form and I think I was accepted , but I had neglected to post here on this thread as well: oops, sorry. I'll assume that I'm signed up for this trip and look forward to seeing y'all. Peter

NSPN Downeast Paddle Retreat : September 12-15, 2024 Initiator: Peter Brady This 4 day event will be in its 10th year and is designed for NSPN folks to gather, socialize, and paddle in the Mount Desert Island area of Downeast Maine at a great time of the year. This year’s retreat will be from Thursday afternoon Sept. 12th to Sunday afternoon Sept.15th, with group paddles each day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Most people travel & arrive on Thursday afternoon or evening, and depart on Sunday afternoon. But some arrive sooner and leave later, and there will be an option for a Thursday paddle or other activity. Some participants also take days off from paddling for bicycling or hiking on the trails of Acadia National Park. The 2024 retreat is being posted early so that those attending can be encouraged to secure accommodations sooner rather than later. This will be bumped on the message board every few months. Our base of operations will be at Rose Eden Cottages, Rose Eden is a cottage resort with some 12 cabins between the Narrows and the town of Bar Harbor Bar Harbor, near Hadley Point. We can gather at Rose Eden for car caravans to launch sites, and in the evening to socialize and plan next day’s trips. For those who plan to stay elsewhere, there is a wide variety of accommodations in the area, including nearby campgrounds which have been popular. Accommodations are on your own. Make your own arrangements (including reservations, cancellations deposits , etc) for your entire stay during this event. A number of yearly attendees have already reserved at Rose Eden for 2024. You are encouraged to make reservations (at Rose Eden or elsewhere) as far in advance as possible, as Bar Harbor is becoming more popular as a travel destination, and many hotels are booked many months in advance. Even campgrounds are often booked up. Hadley Point Campground is a recommended camping spot: it’s just across the road and a stones throw from Rose Eden. By now we’ve accumulated a menu of trips suited to this area, and there seem to be more each year. The general plan is to have each day’s paddle trips planned the previous day, usually by some sort of meeting: Some favorite destinations are: the Porcupine Islands off of Bar Harbor in Frenchman’s Bay, the Cranberry Islands on the south side of MDI, Bartlett Island and Sound, and the dramatic eastern shore MDI between Bar Harbor and Seal Harbor. In the last couple of years our variety of trips expanded further into the Gott Islands and Soames Sound, and this year we explored the northern end of Frenchmans Bay. So new trip ideas are always welcome, and the event depends on folks stepping forward to initiate or lead tips here and there. There is also a Sullivan Falls Tidal training class with Pinniped Kayak on Thursday, timed to coincide with this event. Most years several NSPN’ers have done this class in addition to the retreat. This is a rain or shine event, unlikely to be canceled (we even kept the event going during Hurricane Anne this year) , since there’s usually some place to paddle around MDI in all but the harshest conditions, an­d there are many other activities in the area as an alternative. It’s a good event to bring family members who would like to pursue mainland activities while we’re at sea. If you are interested in attending, please RSVP (check " I’m going") in the calendar posting for this event A Group PM with all participants will get going a few months before the event , for information sharing, planning and communication. If you have any questions: contact Peter Brady (PeterB on the message board) by PM on the message board, or reply here. 10th annual Retreat .docx

I heard recently of good keg repair work and service from Maine Sport Outfitters in Rockport, ME . I guess these things come and go, sounds like at this time, they have a really good repair person.

The retreat was in its 9th year, and had been scheduled for Thursday afternoon through Sunday, Sept 14-17, but as things turned out, Hurricane Anne was traveling north along the east coast, and struck the Bar Harbor area on Saturday, right in the middle of the planned event, disrupting everything. Some 24 people had RSVP’d for this event at one time or another, and many had made reservations at nearby hotels and campgrounds, especially Rose Eden Cottage Resort, where the event was based for the second year. As the date approached, we were communicating by group PM on the message board, and early in the week it was evident that there would be significant precipitation and weather during the event. By Tuesday or Wednesday it was clear that the hurricane would strike the area on the weekend, and weekend advisories and notifications began to appear : Acadia National Park would be closing all campgrounds and some of its roads, and Hadley Point Campground , where several were staying, was closing for the whole weekend. Weather would be decent until Friday evening, and Saturday would be Hurricane Day, obviously a paddling write-off, throwing the whole enterprise into question for many, especially those staying in campgrounds and with tricky travel plans . So this planned event with its Friday, Saturday and Sunday paddling days evolved into a two-day paddling affair, with paddling days moved up to Thursday and Friday, after which we would either get out of Dodge, hunker down in our cottages for the hurricane, or just take it as it comes and see what might happen . By Thursday some 11 had cancelled for a variety of reasons, mostly the weather forecast and uncertain driving conditions , and ultimately 12 attended, with 10 of us paddling on one or both days: a group of seven paddled on Thursday, and a group of eight on Friday. For my part I had reserved a cabin at Rose Eden for the week, so I was resolved to stay through the weekend, come what may. By Wednesday evening , eight us were in the area already.; so around 6 PM five of us gathered at Rose Eden, and repaired to a nearby barbecue joint for dinner and patched together a plan for Thursday’s paddle. There was general agreement to avoid whatever conditions were already brewing on the ocean-facing south side of Mount Desert Island and to confine our paddling to tame ventures on the north side of the island, so we fixed on a one-way trip from Bartlett Landing on the west side of MDI, paddling northward back to Hadley Point on the very top of the island. This involved some car shuttling fancy footwork , but with southwest winds and a midday high tide this route would give us a fair wind and tide all day long. (thanks Pablo, Marcy and Janice for photos and videos) Thursday So, after spotting three cars at Hadley Point, seven of us in four cars assembled at the public boat launch at Bartlett Landing,and launched around 9:20, paddling in the rain at a very relaxed pace, , following the coast pretty closely to enjoy the unspectacular but very pleasant northwest side of MDI . The rains seemed to have the effect of tamping down the ocean into a velvety carpet, so it was a smooth mellow ride, and the recent rains had enlarged the many small streams into little waterfalls where they met the ocean , water also cascading down many modest rock formations here and there. Some of us explored Squid Cove a bit, and after rounding High Head at the top of Bartlett Sound we explored the islands around Indian Head, where we stopped on a small gravel beach for an early lunch. From there , we sort-of crossed Northwest Cove and reached the narrows about hour and a half after high tide, where the beginnings of the ebb tide under the bridge gently whooshed us through the Narrows. We ambled onward along the south end of Thomas Island , returning to Hadley Point to begin the task of retrieving three cars back at Bartlett landing, before re-convening at Rose Eden for dinner and a Friday planning session at C-Ray lobster & clam shack, right next door to Rose Eden. FRIDAY For Friday, we decided to try an entirely new paddling venue up at the northern end of Frenchmans Bay, from the village of Sorrento. The trip would require a 40 minute drive, but we would get to explore a new area, even further from any ocean conditions that might make us skittish , and would also be a convenient locale for five of the participants hitting the road at the end of the day. So, eight of us met at Sorrento, launched at @ 10 AM from a handy beach next to the town dock, and paddled as a group from Sorrento Harbor southeasterly where Flanders Bay is formed by a chain of not-small islands: Preble, Calf , and Stave, extending southward towards Jordan and Ironbound Islands , and the Porcupines. Some wanted to paddle further than others and a few people were hoping to hit the road by 2PM-ish, so after a lunch stop on the east side of Stave Island we split into two groups, with four of us heading back to Sorrento and the other four continuing further southward before turning around. Our group crossed back to Calf Island, then sought the lee (N winds today around 10 kts) of Preble Island’s south side, and slithered back into Sorrento Harbor. The other group continued south to tiny Yellow Island , just off of Jordan Island’s north end , and returned along the west side of Stave & Calf islands before ducking back into Sorrento Harbor and our put in. As a debrief , I think we found the village of Sorrento quite hospitable as a launch site, with friendly locals showing us where to plant our cars. Our chain of islands were all very pleasant, with distant views of Acadia hills and mountains. I liked the whole paddle, and whetted my appetite for future exploration in this new area. We didn’t quite get to Bean Island , a new Frenchmans Bay Conservancy refuge, and I imagined two other possible future trips, 1) a one-way between Sorrento and Bar Harbor (if car shuttling could be worked out: I think I have a one-way paddle fetish) and 2) a tidal-planning circumnav. of Crabtree Neck , timing the passage on the Sullivan River at Sullivan Falls and the narrow squiggly Carrying Place Cove for slack before ebb. Any takers? Our paddling likely done, back at Rose Eden, we gathered at the largest & best equipped cottage and salvaged our planned Saturday potluck , with steamer clams, a casserole, various other goodies and adult beverages. The next morning we woke up to the hurricane, spent the morning over breakfast assessing the conditions outside , and by late morning judge that things were not too severe to venture out for a look -see, as we all wanted to take a gander at the ocean . Four of us drove in one car (with no kayaks on top) over to Schooner head near Sand Beach and then got close to Otter Cliffs and Thunder Hole by a back road, (the Park Loop road was closed but there were several dozen intrepid storm watchers out on foot) ) and strolled along to take a gander at the ocean meeting Otter Cliffs , which was…. pretty impressive. . IMG_9077.MOV Rains soaked us , even with our rain gear, so we retreated to Rose Eden for camp comfort , pot luck leftovers and a few additional goodies. . The next day was sunny and fair , and by midday I was the only one left at Rose Eden, but I actually almost paddled with Megan , a new NSPNer who actually lives in Bar Harbor but was only available toon Sunday; but while the Porcupines looked enticing, w-nw winds of 10-15, gusts to 20 were forecast, a bit much for me since my lower back was aching badly, so we reluctantly agreed to leave it for another day. Thanks to all who made this a nice trip, and especially offering good judgment, conditions assessment and weather forecasting. Sorry to have missed everyone who had to cancel, but glad tat everyone made good decisions. So, despite all these twists and turns , enough folks expressed a desire return next year, so we’ll be scheduling the Retreat once again on the same weekend in mid September, and I’ll be looking forward to it as always.

The Retreat, as you all must know; was upended by Hurricane Anne which struck the Bar Harbor area on Saturday , right in the middle of the planned event, disrupting travel and paddling plans for almost everybody . It evolved into a two day paddling event, with trips on Thursday and Friday, for some 11 folks who didn’t cancel plans entirely . Most vacated by Friday afternoon , 5 of us hunkering in motel rooms & cottages on Saturday. Will patch together a trip report soon.

The Retreat is now one week away, and those who have RSVP'd for this trip are all on a group PM thread, so we're all able to communicate with each other, but here's a general update. This is a rain- or- shine event, and though it's likely we'll have some precipitation and weather next week, rest assured that this event is ON , and Rose Eden Cottages will be our base of operations. If on any day the weather is too crummy to safely and happily paddle on the ocean, we'll still have the options to paddle on some inland ponds, and there are lots of on-land things to do: Every year some folks have taken paddling days off to fit in hiking, bicycling and general touring around MDI, so best to be flexible. The event starts @ 6PM on Thursday: a number of us are staying at Rose Eden Cottages so we will be there starting Thursday late afternoon. For those attending , please check your PM's on the NSPN website and/ or texts on , there will be regular updates. Feel free to contact me directly as well, by phone, text, or PM. Cheers,Peter

Yes, moving the bulkhead rearward is a great thing to do, both for increasing the space for dry gear in the (watertight) front compartment and for lowering the volume in the (often wet) cockpit which is a very good thing when the cockpit needs to be emptied of water (eg capsize & wet exit or general landing & exiting in splashy surf mayhem): way less water to evacuate. The only issue though, is resale value: if you have shorter- than- average legs: you don't want to move the bulkhead too far rearward that only people with short legs can use the boat. But then again, the Avocet LV is usually prized by smaller paddlers. I've relocated a couple of bulkheads and found the job to require patience but otherwise on the easy side relative to many other loathsome fiberglass repair jobs. There's decent access to the whole work area, especially with those big Avocet oval hatches ( a Romany would be another story).But you do need to be handy with power tools, fiberglass work, and general shop skills.

Amazing that you have brought up this area: I did an Isle Royale paddle trip last August, and am planning a Georgian Bay-Philip Edward Island trip this year, if I can manage it. My family (mom's side) is from Ontario and I've spent a good bit of family time on Georgian Bay. I explored Pictured Rocks on my way to Isle Royale: Grand Marais harbor would be the natural launch point for a kayak trip there, though the other end would be viable as well. Killarney is classic canoe/ portage country: many fabulous lakes, but almost all connected only by portage trails; planning a long kayak trip there would be tricky. Campsites are reserved many months in advance. Philip Edward Island is excellent: Crown land so you don't need permits and reservations months in advance like the Provincial Parks, and a good number of route options, protected or exposed ; innumerable islands and campsites: a Canadian kayaker's paradise. Classic Georgian bay scenery , meaning endless rock, waterscapes, dome -like islands and pine trees. Make sure you have a 100% free-standing tent, or really have your guy-out system worked out; you'll be tenting on smooth rock or very shallow soil, which often won't take tent pegs. The starting point is close to Killarney Outfitters, a great place which can also help out with trip planning, shuttles , outfitting, supplies etc. Great fish & chips in the area, made from Great Lakes whitefish, which is interesting. Massasauga rattlesnakes are common.

Interested! I'll PM you today. Peter

I know Somes Sound View Campground and Mount Desert Campground (also on Somes Sound) from years ago and remember them both as very good. Mount Desert Campground is often hard to get reservations at because of its popularity and quality ; maybe the top campground on MDI. Somes Sound View (I called it Hall Quarry) Campground is a fine place, generally good campsites with a handful of outstanding sites that you'd be lucky to get. Both are well- situated for accessing MDIs various put-ins, and reasonably close to Rose Eden. There are big campgrounds along Rte 3 closer to Rose Eden, but they're bigger, more commercial, more RVs etc. Mount Desert is very quaint and probably doesn't allow RV's.

Do you think this might also be a general purpose zipper maintenance product ( gear bags, outdoor jacket zips, sleeping bag zips: that kind of thing) , whether salt is the culprit or not?

Dan, do you envision a small group? :if the group size is too small (e.g 6-8 ) to comfortably and happily split into 2 groups , and if a Georgetown circumnavigation is a key feature of this trip, that could limit some applicants, who might not be into a 22 NM day trip. Personally, its not likely I'd want to do that circumnavigation this year , at least at any standard pace, so I'd be looking for a range of alternative paddling options, in which case I may or may not qualify for this trip: which makes me think that the ideal group size could be greater than you mentioned, and be open to a wider range of NSPNers. Peter

I had always thought the AMC cabin could be a great place for an NSPN workshop or trip or even longer (eg. 5 day) retreat. Years ago, the NSPN Board bandied about ideas for some kind of yearly grand NSPN event, and a week at AMC Knubble Bay was one idea, a potentially good place for a variety of kayak action, anything from a simple trip to club skills training to workshops including invited instructors. Georgetown circumnavigation is pretty awesome, one of the great Maine coast trips. So varied , and everything (open coastline, Popham, Kennebec River , Back River marshlands Hell's Gate etc) is splendid! : could be done either CW or CCW,: the crux point is the top of Georgetown Island, where there's a section at the top of the Back River (where it meets Hockamock Bay) which must be traversed close to high tide, both to avoid a little stretch that runs dry for a some time ( a few hours?) , and to be positioned to catch the flood or the ebb, depending on on which direction you're going. If CW, that area would want to be reached late in the day, if CCW, early in the day. I've done the Georgetown circumnavigation several times, both directions: either way is a wonderful trip, the best of midcoast Maine. Yes, I'd be interested in an NSPN /AMC KNB outing under some circumstances. As long as it's not in June/early July: Georgetown island is notorious for mosquitoes! The place has a good group kitchen which lends itself to high quality group meals. I'm sorry to hear about the lack of showers: I was there for a chunk of time years ago and honestly can't remember that: I vaguely remember showering there, but that was a while ago and I may be totally wrong...

Yes: Merry Christmas, all.

September 14-17, 2023 Initiator: Peter Brady This now-traditional 4 day event is designed for folks to gather, socialize, and paddle in the Mount Desert Island area at a great time of the year. This year’s retreat will be from Thursday afternoon Sept. 14th to Sunday afternoon Sept.17th, with group paddles each day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Please note that this event will be one week later than previous years , as we wish to secure a good foothold at Rose Eden Cottages , which is hosting another event on the weekend after Labor Day. Most people travel & arrive on Thursday afternoon or evening, and depart on Sunday afternoon. But some arrive sooner and leave later, so there can be the option for more paddling or other activities in the days before or after the event. Our base of operations will be at Rose Eden Cottages, Rte 3 near Hadley Point , Bar Harbor, Rose Eden is a cottage resort with some 12 cabins. In 2022 We moved our base of operations to Rose Eden, and it worked well as a gathering spot. We can gather there for car caravans to launch sites, and in the evening to socialize and plan next day’s trips. A number of yearly attendees will have already reserved at Rose Eden. For those who plan to stay elsewhere, there is a wide variety of accommodations in the area , including nearby campgrounds which have been popular. Accommodations are on your own. Make your own arrangements (including reservations, cancellations deposits whatever) for your entire stay during this event. You are encouraged to make reservations (at Rose Eden of course, or elsewhere) as far in advance as possible, as Bar Harbor is becoming more popular as a travel destination, and many hotels are booked many months in advance. Even campgrounds are often booked up. By now we’ve accumulated a menu of trips suited to this area, and there seem to be more each year. The general plan is to have each days paddle planned the previous day, usually by some sort of meeting, : pot luck dinners, meet & greets, gatherings at Rose Eden. Some favorite destinations are: the Porcupine Islands off of Bar Harbor in Frenchman’s Bay, the Cranberry Islands on the south side of MDI, Bartlett Island and Sound, and Blue Hill Bay on the West Side, and the dramatic eastern shore of the island between Bar Harbor and Seal Harbor. In the last couple of years our variety of trips expanded further into the Gott Islands and Soames Sound, and this year we did a full moon paddle, so new trip ideas are always welcome. There is also a Sullivan Falls Tidal training class with Pinniped kayak timed to coincide with this event. Most years several NSPN’ers have done this class in addition to the retreat. This is a rain or shine event, unlikely to be canceled , since theres usually someplace to paddle around MDI in all but the harshest conditions, and there are many other activities in the area as an alternative, if weather is truly crappy. Please note that the Acadia night sky Festival is probably earlier in the week, so it's likely that some of us will extend out trip to attend. More information will follow. Some recommended accommodations: Rose Eden: our base of operations. 12 modest cabins, a gathering area in the rear , laundry facilities. Llangolan Inn & Cottages : across the street from Rose Eden; with 8 bungalows and a few rooms in the main inn Hadley Point Campground: this campground is very close & convenient , on Hadley Point Road. With a laundry room and hot showers. Eden Village: A cottage resort similar to Rose Eden , a short ways away on Rte 3. Trenton (off the Island): Just across the bridge to Mount Desert Island, between Ellsworth and Bar Harbor there are cottages and motels that are probably less pricey than on Mt. Desert Island.  also campgrounds used by NSPN’ers in 2022, not too far away: Halls Quarry Mount Desert Island Campground If you are interested in attending, please RSVP ( check " I’m going") in the calendar posting for this event . (Sept 14th, 2023) A Group PM with all of participants will get going in the months and weeks before the event , for information sharing, planning and communication. if you have any questions, reply here or PM Peter Brady (PeterB)

I’d d love to autumn paddle Squam with you on Thursday: not sure I’d be fit to keep up with you hard chargers and may or may not be dragging after todays Covid booster, though I’ve not really suffered from my previous four shots. Peter

The Bar Harbor Paddle Retreat was in its eighth year, and this year we switched our base of operations from the LLangolan Inn to The Rose Eden, a similar but different cottage resort across the street. I was apprehensive about the transition to a new base, but it turned out to work very well; the hosts were mellow about having kayakers and dogs gathering there, and there was a nice picnic area with gazebo nestled behind the front row of cottages, quite suitable for our gatherings, especially in the fine summer-like weather we enjoyed throughout the event. Temperatures were in the 70’s up to 81 deg.F, with mostly clear skies, quite a change from last year when it was a challenge to even find places suitable for everybody to paddle each day. This year sixteen paddlers attended, plus two spouses and two dogs, further affirming this as a family friendly event: Rose Eden is a dog friendly place, so first- timer Jody came with her three handsome charges: one spouse and two dogs, and happily reported a successful recreational trifecta: one day bicycling with spouse, one day hiking with dogs and spouse, and one day kayaking with kayakers. Mike and Betsy arrived earlier in the week and enjoyed doing vacation stuff along with some paddling. I arrived a day early and stayed a day longer, and was able to fit some garden touring, trail strolling, and general relaxing into my trip. We paddled as a group on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, with two group gatherings at Rose Eden : a Thursday evening meet & greet, and our traditional Saturday evening potluck, so in all the event was a nice mix of on- and off the water activities. On Thursday, folks filtered into town, and we had our meet n’ greet gathering by the gazebo at Rose Eden, where we had pizza and salads and discussed the next day’s plans. This year there was a Harvest moon on Friday along with warm weather and mild conditions, so a moonlight paddle became the primary topic of conversation, and after no alternative plans materialized, the entire group coalesced around a Friday night full moon paddle plan: launch from Southeast Harbor at 4PM for a paddle to the Cranberries and back, the trip timed to enjoy sunset, moonrise and moonglow from the Cranberries. So, we arrived at Northeast Harbor at 3 PM, giving us an hour to get ready for a night venture , and launched at 4 PM. There were 14 of us, way too many to manage as one group, especially at night, so once on the water we divided into two groups of seven and slithered out of Northeast Harbor, both groups following more or less the same route as we first crossed to Bear Island and then to the northwestern-ish end of Sutton Island. From there we followed Sutton’s rocky shoreline, with a bit of rock gardening and gap shooting along the way, and filtered into the little village of Islesford on Little Cranberry Island, our planned stop-and-regroup-for-moonrise pit stop . Islesford turned out to be a bustling place, with some sort of upscale evening event in the town wharf building , probably scheduled for the harvest moon. After a pause, Group A launched again, and ambled over to Great Cranberry and a berm by “ the Pool” to watch the moonrise. We in P Pod lingered at Islesford and had some dinner, launched close to sunset and drifted southward past Maypole Point into the big bay looking out towards Baker Island, over which the moon rose. Fabulolus! As the gloaming gave way to evening we meandered dreamily about for a while , enjoying the moon, before migrating over to Great Cranberry for our leisurely return voyage. By now it was dark, and we crossed back to the middle of Sutton Island, rounded its western end, returning to Northeast harbor via Bear Island, and back into Northeast Harbor a bit after 9PM Saturday: Since we paddled into the evening and then scurried off to bed, we hadn't found time to make a solid plan for the next day, so at the Friday night takeout we hastily put together a plan that involved a later start and considered Fridays conditions ; Hurricane Earl was somewhere out there, sending some long period swell towards the south end of the island, so we fixed on the Bartlett Sound area as a prudent place to paddle, on the opposite side of the island from any conditions that might be a concern to anybody. We met at Seal Cove at 11, launched around 11:30, followed the coastline northwards towards Bartlett Sound, crossed to Bartlett Island near the mouth of the sound, and funneled into familiar Dogfish cove, a fine spot for a lunch break. The ride had been getting a bit choppy with southwest wind waves meeting the now ebbing tide, suggesting that we might be in for a bit of a slog on the way back , so we divided into two groups for the rest of the trip. Michael, Troad, Yong and Bill, seeking a little more adventure, crossed over to Hardwood Island and returned to Seal Cove via Moose Island. The rest of us took a protected route back, snaked out of Dogfish cove, crossed the sound behind Folly island, and followed the shoreline back to Seal Cove, encountering less of a slog than anticipated. By the time we reached Moose Island a bar had emerged connecting it with MDI, so we carried our boats across the bar before finishing off our paddle., and scurried off to prepare for our potluck. I left my paddling gear on and drove straight to Long Pond, and walked right into the water for a quick rinse and refreshing swim, which I shared with some cavorting family dogs and children. Pot luck got underway at the gazebo at 6:30, marked by the usual delicacies , pleasant conversation, and trip planning for the next day. The group would be thinning out the next day with some folks heading home, so we planned a favorite Porcupines outing that had eluded us till now. Sunday: Six of us fixed on a plan to tour the Porcupines from 9 AM-ish to 2 PM-ish, so that those leaving could get on the road at a reasonable time. So we set off from Rose Eden a little after 8 AM to get our cars parked in increasingly congested downtown Bar Harbor, and we set off from the Bar just as it was disappearing with the incoming tide, a little before 9 AM, for our nickel tour of the Porcupines. As things played out, we made short work of the Porcupines, paddling at a slow but steady pace from Bar to Sheep to Burnt to Long Porcupine, pausing only to take turns paddling in and out of the “keyhole” on Burnt Porcupine, before stopping at a now-favorite little beach between Long Porcupine and “The Hop” for an early lunch and much needed bio break. But at close to high tide our nice tombolo connecting Long Porcupine and the Hop was underwater, leaving us with little room to loll & bask in the sun. There was a consensus that the day was too far too fair and the paddling far too pleasant to cut short, so we ditched our earlier plan and extended our tour to Ironbound, that one-step-beyond cliffy island that Porcupine trips often don’t quite get to. We crossed to the northern end of Ironbound, paddled down the east side, as the spectacular (“Porcupines-on steroids”) cliffs along Ironbound’s southern end rose from the forests . This approach somehow seemed more breathtaking to me than the couterclockwise approach I’d done in the past. We dodged into a little cove near the southern point (yet another Seal Cove on the chart) where we found one of Ironbound's few really comfy landing spots, and had a nice rest and snack before rounding the southern tip of Ironbound and heading homeward. We crossed to Bald Porcupine Island and filtered back into Bar Harbor, where this this altogether pleasant outing ironically turned into something of a comedy of errors . We first had trouble figuring out how to pass through the Bar Harbor waterfront, which was a beehive of boat activity: cruise ship taxis buzzing back and forth, a large catamaran tour boat galumphing into the town dock, and yet another tour boat doing…. something or other. After some deliberation we scooted across the main waterfront channel and threaded our way through a maze of moored fishing boats back to the bar, and with the falling tide we then began to run aground approaching our takeout, and found our way to shore with a bit of difficulty. Finally off the water, we faced yet another indignity ; Bridge Street, the single narrow road to the Bar, was severely rutted due to a recent washout, and blocked by a car with Florida plates that was lodged in a deep rut , its unhappy owners awaiting tow service ? so we had to ferry our boats up past the wreckage, just as what seemed like hundreds of tourists began to stream down the road onto the bar to walk to Bar island. A fine day capped off with a real cluster----. Those of us not hitting the road returned to Rose Eden, where John, Jody, Scott, Pat and I patched together a dinner party with take-out from the nearby barbecue joint combined with various fine offerings from John’s kitchenette emporium. The next day we remaining folks didn’t paddle: some folks leisurely checked out and did various on-land stuff before departing: Garden tours, hikes, whatever: I took a stroll to Great Head and Sand Beach, and en route I thought I saw Jody and Scott’ s car parked at a hiking trailhead and thought “ happy dogs today…”. As always, it was great to paddle and hang out with old and new friends, and I enjoyed the spirit , camaraderie and paddling chops that everyone brought to this event. Naturally, I'm already thinking ahead to next year. ( photographs in this report are mostly from Pat and Janice: thanks!)

Nick, New composite kayaks often have minimally prepared cockpit coaming rims , meaning that they've been minimally trimmed to size and sanded so they are acceptable but can still be a bit sharp and uneven , meaning in turn they can use a bit more prep, mainly in the form of sanding. Take a look and do a braille- like exam on the edge and underside of your cockpit coaming rim: If it's not perfectly smooth to the touch, sanding the edge (rounding it a bit) and the underside (that's hard to see) can perhaps create a smoother release of the spray skirt. A good litmus test is: if you're wearing latex surgical gloves and stroking the cockpit rim rips the latex, its too ragged & needs sanding . A smoother cockpit rim, especially with 303 , will also be kinder to your spray skirt, which can wear out right along where it grips the cockpit, sometimes in an alarmingly short period of time..

I remember this boat at New England Small Craft in Rowley back around 2005 . I was told that the traditional Baidarka was designed as a fishing & hunting vessel, paddled out weighted with rocks, paddled home weighted with catch replacing the rocks ; I don't know if the modern design retains these traditional characteristics , if so the boat might have some distinct handing features.

It looks like Gaia GPS is changing over to the new digital NOAA chart templates , and I loathe the new chart graphics as much as I love the old ones. I think Joe Berkovitz mentioned an inquiry into restoring or retaining “ antique” NOAA chart settings on Gaia, but don’t remember the outcome, and can’t locate the thread on the message board. Curiously, My Ipad has retained the old NOAA chart templates, probably because I haven’t signed into my account on the Ipad since the change. But my Iphone and computer are now afflicted with the new graphics. Any updates on the prospect of restoring/ retaining the good old NOAA chart templates , or otherwise improving the look/ aesthetics of the current chart templates, ( playing with the settings,whatever); to make using the new Gaia remotely tolerable ?

Andy, Good eye : That was my water bottle (empty tonic bottle filled with water) taken out of the hatch during one of my many rest stops. But, yes, I did bring some groceries to my sailing friends who had been without resupply for 3 1/2 weeks, including gin, tonic and limes for g&t's on their sailboat. But all I could find in the Houghton market was diet tonic, so I may have stigmatized myself as a gin & tonic barbarian. Ed, I heard no wolves, and understand that their populations have dwindled significantly. My first awareness of Isle Royale was from around high school, reading of the moose-wolf populations there living in balance, a well known story. Moose are plentiful, often seen swimming in channels between islands and peninsulas. Loon calls were incessant. Kate: Funny, but once I arrived the island struck me as a Hartland-esque (and Yorkian) kind of place: ideal for those who enjoy paddling and strolling . Services and ferries close down pretty early, I think around September 10th , probably for a good reason. September would be grand , but with an added chance of harsh weather on and off the water. If you need any more info, give a holler. I feel pretty conversant on the island now; and it's an easier place to trip plan and get to than might first appear.

For many years I had wanted to make a trip to Isle Royale National Park in northern Lake Superior: A trip requiring this much car travel, logistics and free time never came together for me until now, when I finally decided to get all Carpe Diem-ish and just do it. Isle Royale is about 44 miles long and no wider than @ 4-5 miles, with a mostly rocky and wooded shoreline. The spine of Greenstone Ridge runs the length of the island, and there are numerous fine NPS waterfront campsites, including a handful only accessible by boat , all of which are up to or surpassing the standards we have come to expect on the Maine Island Trail. Isle Royale is the least visited of all National Parks, requiring a boat trip; 3-6 hours by ferry from three locations on the mainland. There’s a not-large National Parks visitors center, marina and village at Rock Harbor with a few amenities, and a smaller ranger office at Windigo on the western end of the island ; otherwise the island is wild except for a few fishing camps and structures here and there, and an extensive network of hiking trails with campsites. A kayak or backpacking trip here qualifies as a wilderness experience. I had always envisioned a circumnav. of this island, for which a week is advised. However, during Covid I was stricken with a great misfortune, stenosis in my cervical area requiring major spinal surgery (fusion of three sets of cervical vertebrae) which left my legs considerably weakened, greatly diminishing my kayak capabilities, at least for the time being. So I have had to rethink my kayaking in general and scale down my expectations for a trip such as this. I ditched any ideas of a circumnav. and narrowed my focus to the eastern part of the island, where a quick gander at aerial photos and charts clearly reveal a paddlers paradise. I was questioning my fitness for such a trip, even after I adjusted my expectations. I had done two 4-5 day paddling trips this summer which gave me some idea of what I could and couldn’t handle in my sorry state. I finally was emboldened to make this trip when I connected with Patty, an old friend from my home town, whom I had known since Union County Band and Orchestra school, and who now spends a 3-4 weeks each summer on Isle Royale with her husband on their sailboat, the Doris E. Patty and Dave would be available to help me out , mothership me if needed, generally be within VHF range and provide a safety contact. Generally, my approach would be to paddle prudently, noodling-style, take frequent rests and skinny dips, and aim for daily mileage in the 7-10 NM range. I would be with vhf (monitored on 16 by the NPS) and a Garmin Inreach GPS personal locator device. So I booked a ferry ticket from Houghton, MI to Isle Royale, and drove with kayak and gear from Massachusetts to Michigan’s upper peninsula, via Ontario and Sault Ste Marie, visiting my cousin near Toronto along the way. Once on the northern Peninsula, I visited Pictured Rocks National seashore, which was appealing enough for me to return to for a deeper dive on the way home. Lake Superior takes its sand dunes, rocky shorelines (and cumulus clouds) seriously. I boarded the Ranger III in Houghton, MI for the 6 hour trip to Rock Harbor, The Ranger III is the largest and most seaworthy of the three ferries going to IR , so it was a comfortable ride for this seasick-prone passenger. For much of the trip we were in the fog, but broke out into the sunshine just as we approached the island, and its beauty was immediately apparent as we entered Rock Harbor. I met my friends Patty and Dave at the ferry dock, and together we portaged my kayak and gear about 150 meters across the narrow Rock Harbor peninsula to Tobin Harbor, a better setting-off point for a kayak trip. I quickly saddled up and paddled to their sailboat , moored about a mile away in Tobin Harbor near Hidden Lake. and spent the night with them on the Doris E, ., having dinner and a mini HS reunion , discussing the island, and making our respective plans for the coming days. The next morning I loaded my boat for good (not an easy task to load a kayak from a sailboat: I didn’t lose anything but I still don’t recommend it ) and set off on my own, first a quick trip back to the headquarters to reserve my ferry return, then off for the eastern end of the island, with a goal of rounding Blake Point, a crux point on any IR trip as this area can be a magnet for trouble on Lake Superior’s many days of harsh weather and crashy waters. One of my safety measures was to be prepared for assistance from the Doris E as they they could carry me and kayak around the point if need be. But I was generally blessed with idyllic weather and mostly calm waters , sunny skies and warm temperatures, and rounding the point solo was a breeze, followed by about 1 ¼ NM of reflecting waves off of the dramatic basalt palisades on the north side the point. Isle Royale is essentially one big lava flow, with the resulting basalt rock a distinct grey-dark pumpernickel color, often splashed with orange lichens. The basalt is quite nuanced on closer examination: the cooling lava entrapped many gases which in turn metamorphosed into various minerals such as feldspar, so the basalt was often dotted and veined with interesting pink, white , green colors and patterns: Amygdaloid basalt. Wildflowers were everywhere! Once around Blake Point , I ambled into Duncan Bay and the Duncan Narrows campsite, a fine grassy place with a picnic table and two luxurious lean-tos, equipped with screen doors (!) , which I realized would be of great utility (or rather indispensable) earlier in the summer . Biting insects were minimal at this time of year , but I would not advise visiting this island in June or much of July. I settled in for dinner, but had packed mostly dehydrated backpackers meals, which were a sore disappointment, and by night three I switched back to plain old macaroni and cheese or other pasta augmented with grated cheddar and a few other goodies. The day's mileage was @ 8.5 NM I set off the next morning and continued to amble down Duncan Bay, a long dead end, and met again with Patty and Dave, who had moored for several days near the end of Duncan Bay , and they helped me portage my kayak @ 150 meters to Five Finger Bay , a nice help as it spared me the return trip out around Locke Point, which I would tour anyway on the return to Rock Harbor. Entering Five Finger Bay I was greeted with ever more fabulous sunny & calm weather, so I changed my plan of exploring all the inland bays, nooks and crannies to capitalize on this opportunity to go way out there, touring outermost Amygdaloid island before returning to Belle Isle campsite, a sprawling, venerable place ,which must be on the site of some historical structure, with several lean-tos, a boat dock and a lovely open field area. Day's 's mileage was @14.5 NM, longer than I had planned but I couldn't not keep going on such a nice day. The next day my goal was to get back around Blake Point so I’d be prepared the next afternoon to get close to the ferry which would be leaving early the next morning. So I paddled in and out of and between little islands, around Locke Point and back around Blake point, before settling into another fine campsite nearby. Day's mileage was @9.5 NM On the next day I paddled back to the Tobin Harbor mooring where Doris E had returned , and met up with Patty and Dave for a hike from nearby Hidden Lake trailhead up to Sentinel Rock and Lookout Louise, at the terminus of the island-long Greenstone Ridge trail. The hike took us through an area that had been scorched by a big forest fire in 2021, and the landscape was blackened and Stygian. Sentinel Rock is perhaps the most notable geologic feature on the island, and it was interesting to see it amidst this scorched landscape, which has its own beauty, especially with emerging plants and wildflowers showing signs of the landscape beginning its restoration. Lookout Louise gave a view of Duncan Bay and beyond From the trailhead, we said our goodbyes and I returned to Rock Harbor, this time around Scoville Point and along Rock Harbor which finally showed me some bumpy waters. I was planning to stay on kayak-friendly Tookers Island nearby, but was told at the Ranger office that I could use the nearby Rock Harbor campground, so I sorted out my gear in preparation for the early morning ferry, grabbed a sandwich wrap at the cafe, and crashed in one of the campground lean-tos, catching the ferry early the next morning. Day's mileage was @ 5.5NM., plus a 2-3 mile hike. Isle Royale was a fabulous destination, made all the better with fortuitous conditions - one sunny fair day after another. Campsites were grand, water was a great temperature for daily skinny dips, and wildlife, though diminished like everywhere else, was plentiful by todays standards: Loons and mergansers seemed plump and very tame, kingfishers, bald eagles, pileated woodpeckers, grey jays, sandpipers, many whiish-whsssh -calling little birds like kinglets were often seen . Moose are plentiful but I only saw one as I was on the water most of the time. The fishing is outstanding: I shared some king salmon with a trio of hard core fishermen at one campsite. Lake trout, and northern pike are plentiful; getting a 36 inch long pike is hardly worth mention. I encountered two other kayakers, plus two on the ferry coming and going . Otherwise boat traffic was sparse . I think that the second half of August is just the time to visit the island. I would recommend this trip to anyone with a fondness for fresh water and the time to make the trip. It’s a long but pleasant drive, with good things to see along the way (I toured the Soo locks at Sault Ste Marie, Pictured Rocks and Tacquemon Falls on the upper peninsula , and Killarney Provincial Park on Georgian Bay in Ontario.) I could envision a trip which combines paddling and hiking and a grandiose vision would be of a 2 or 3 week trip that affords the time to appreciate all this island has to offer. I may be looking to return to this place in the next year or two.