surf zen / blissing out

[rick stoehrer]

It's getting cold out and so we especially think twice about what we're doing on the water. That being said, given the forecast, the conditions we found and the crew, we felt a trip out the mouth of the Merrimac at max ebb was within reason.

Launched from the N pt of PI to catch max ebb. Nice rollers coming in as we rode the water being shotgunned off towards Cape Anne. Had some great rides just S of the stone jetty there and was was just feeling particularly gratified when I looked over to see a tall vertical face directly to sea of Ciro and had time to think "oh, look, it's the wave that ate Ciro"....and he rolled and I surfed in to rescue what would have otherwise been a blue cap donated to Neptune.

After his nasal enema, we headed S a bit to the sandbar offa Plum and it was very, very nice.

You lose yourself riding the wave...there's no earlier, no later...just the immediate.

We lost time for a few hours and then headed back to the point by the jetty to land on the backs of dumpers, portaged over the spit to have a cuppa and launched into the big eddy there.

Really needed it - nice to get my salt fix.