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Skip report, go straight to slideshow Tide schedule (E. Boothbay) Mon, 8.5: LT-0904 HT-1521 Tues, 8.6: LT-1000 HT-1617 Wed, 8.7: LT-1055 HT-1715 Th, 8.8: LT-1154 HT-1814 Susie had given me marching orders to make room for her annual Girls’ Week. Of course I complied and schemed up something that involved sea kayaking. I had invited a bunch of my buddies, but Dan was the only one who could make it. As time goes by, (and it does, in my seventh decade) I often wonder “Will this be the last time that I “______“ (fill in the blank: back-country ski, scuba dive, sea safari, post a trip report). Through the clear lens of the retrospectoscope it is obvious, but we rarely know in the present, that this is the last time. I supposed that it might be my last safari, as I expected this trip to finish “connecting most of the dots” from Kittery to Eastport. G's paddlelog.pdf We had picked a very nice weather window, and rendezvoused at Wiscasset Town Landing around noon, to spot a car. The line @ Red’s was >1hr; better luck on the way home? We doubled up and drove 20 minutes to the Waldoboro Public landing. We were on the water by 1310 and floated lazily down the flat, tidal Medomack River, two orange kayaks containing two happy paddlers. Very little current, a few hours before high tide, as we marveled at the undeveloped shoreline for most of the way. On this bright, sunny day we took a shady rest at a small promontory, complete with bench, and nearby trails to some ?preserve. We meandered unhurriedly toward our first night’s destination, and came upon a small sailboat off its mooring, knocking against the shore. We paddled on, but as someone who has more than once had a sailboat (and kayak!) adrift, we agreed to circle back and do a rescue and tow. Easy to pull her off the rocks, harder still to attach her to the nearest vinyl mooring ball. We tried hailing the home nearby, the only respone a bark. We figured they could sort it out, and paddled on. Crow Island is to Muscongus as Hells Half-Acre is to Stonington, a crowd (hopefully not tonight!) favorite. Visions of Troop 88 saturating the island quickly dissolved, as we happily saw two adult kayakers emerge from the island woods, the only residents. Mark and Red from Amesbury, Massachusetts were trying their hand at kayak camping, having launched from nearby Round Pond. Dan had a gut feeling that he had met these two before, and in fact, they had attended one of the recent NSPN holiday parties! Our request for permission to camp was granted, as the island has two separated group campsites, and I was certain that they had offered us the premier one. Boats were unloaded, tents set up, and preparations for the evening repast commenced. Dan was game for trying a famous Amato's sandwich, and I had picked him up two (tonight’s supper and tomorrow’s lunch; ditto me) at the Portland store on my way by that morning. The overhead squawking as we supped was very familiar to me, as similar birds at my house are constantly entertaining me. I was happy to be enlightened by Dan that these were “sharpies“-sharp-shinned hawks, a whole family nesting above us. At twilight we pored over charts in preparation for tomorrow’s long day. Dan tried to convince me that the decimal degree scale on his laminated charts was the wave of the future, and at the same time I felt my leg being pulled. Paddle track Day1(8.4M): here We hoped to be around the “danger area” of Pemaquid point early, and by taking advantage of an outgoing tide (LT=0950), we were upright @ 5am, and launched @ the pre-planned 6am target. The water was glassy, and Dan almost lost his head in disbelief. No worries-he had 2 extra lobes in this reflection. A stop at ____ I., our alternate camp for the previous nite, made us thankful; we had a deuce of a time navigating the rock/seaweed landing zone. Beyond that, two nice tent platforms, one western cliffside, and raspberry bushes aplenty. Thank you, private owner, for including this on the MIT! Back in the boats, and soon bewildered that we had covered enough ground (water) to be crossing into New Hampshire already! Houses atop steep rocky shoreline were our beacons for the next few miles to Pemaquid Point. The slight breeze (2-4kn) was much less than the point forecast of 8-10; what would we face after rounding the lighthouse? Not much-just more glass. Conditions were ideal for extending the trip westerly, a 1.5M open-water crossing to the Thrumcaps. I was a bit “at sea” that my 240°M course didn’t seem to get us closer after our ½ hour paddle. The highly visible, and appropriately named White Islands had the lure of a siren, but Dan could see the error of my ways (off), woke me from my trance, and steered me to the 2 nearby islands within spitting distance. We wandered up the Thread of Life, a sometimes-lively trip, but dead quiet this time. We stopped at the S. Bristol public launch, climbed up to the picnic area nearby, and feasted on still-fresh, day-old Italians. A quick leg stretch to the drawbridge and back to the boats, with only a 2+M trek to our camp, a favorable tide assist upriver. Fort I. is to Damariscotta River as Crow is to Muscongus, and we shot through the narrows to the N landing zone. Teenagers were coming and going in various John boats, though this was no Scout Troop, rather, locals out for a few fun nights of camping. Again, plenty of room to share quarters, and we pitched tents at the grassy, breezy, flat, southern promenade. I managed a cat-nap, just before the music started, a “moldy oldie” to appease this member of our duo. The “yutes” were respectful as twilight approached, with dimming of the music, and focus on the campfire. The next day’s (Wed) forecast called for cloudy skies, with increasing chances of showers late, lasting into Thursday. Would Dan mind if we shortened our trip and sretched out Wednesday? Quickly “No” as he pondered being stuck with me under a tarp in the pouring rain @ Ram I., waiting until noon before heading up the Sheepscot! Day2 track (18.8M): here Fog is to be expected any time along the Coast this time of year, and we were not surprised to wake up to it on the last morning. We took advantage of the max ebb, and shot through the narrows @ 0800, averaging 4+kn before sidling up to Linekin Neck. A few minor foggy crossings before entering Linekin Bay, then to Boothbay Harbor Public Landing, where we hitched the horses to a float. I searched for a bakery, without luck, and settled for a delicious slice at Pier Pizza, then one more. Dan was still digesting his triple D (double-dose dinner) from Fort, and opted out. We strolled back to the boats and were off by 1215, making our way to Ram, through Townsend Gut. We surveyed the tenting options, enjoyed a snack, and launched into the Sheepscot, taking advantage of the last 1.5h of max flood. Both water and paddlers were confused at the confluence of the Back and Sheepscot Rivers, opposite Fort Edgecomb. A nearby cove is named “The Eddy” on the chart. We landed, double-kayaked back to Waldoboro, and headed our separate ways (until a reunion shortly thereafter, after crossing into Damariscotta, where paddles exchanged hands). Dan was driving south when the thunderstorms hit, 15 minutes after leaving Wiscasset. Where do you suppose I was (with umbrella, napkin pile, and smile on my face)? Track Day3 (20.8M): here REFLECTIONS: -Thank you MITA for providing sleeping accommodations! -If you want a great paddling partner, invite Dan. Great sense of humor, savvy nav skills, expert camper/outdoorsman, and easy-going. Perhaps this was NOT my last sea safari! -Be prepared for implementation of the decimal-degree wave coming your way; 0.01°=0.6M? -A one-way paddle lets you enjoy double the coastline. Consider different options besides car spotting to make this possible, including a bus ride. The $12, 3:10 from Wiscasset to Waldoboro was an option for this trip. -Local officials are very receptive to grant permission for overnight parking. Police and Harbor Master are best avenues. -Tidal advantages are important considerations when paddling big coastal rivers-plan accordingly. -Amato's Italian sandwiches take the guessing out of what food to pack. Day1 lunch or supper and Day2 lunch can be savored, thanks to the preserving qualities of their famous sour pickles!

Skip report; go straight to slideshow: https://goo.gl/photos/hHjPR3ULzB4HbSBQ9 In deepest darkest winter, I E'd Rob to gauge his interest for our now-annual sea safari, August next. Rob: “What do you have in mind?” Me: “It involves a haunted house, spooky towers, and West Bus Service.” Rob: “I’m in!” We decided to delay the carefully-planned trip by a day, as Sat. called for 10-15 SW, and possible severe T-storms. After a long Sunday carpool from Hampton, we left near HT from the public ramp in Machias, and landed on a familiar shore close to dusk. The Cross I. setting is familiar to many, and would serve as Day2 launch pad to tackle the Bold Coast, weather permitting. It was, and we launched @ 7:45am to cheat a little on the tail ebb (Cutler LT=0828). We were facing a tight window, knowing we had to be through the Narrows bridge no later than 2pm, before the current would turn against us (ROT: current starts flowing southerly, 1.5h before high water @ St. John [in our case: 1536]). A 5-10NW was predicted, but is was calm for the first leg of the trip, as we paddled ~1/4 mile offshore. Rob kept trying to find the magic “escalator” outside, even though we were good for 3.5-4k for much of the first half. During the last half of the trip a SW ~10k picked up, allowing some occasional short surfs. We were closer to 5.5-6k (GPS), with an occasional 7.3 on a “downhill” ride. Working against the clock, we decided against the Sandy Cove landing, and opted for Carrying Place Cove instead, enjoying a <10min bio/lunch break before re-launching. The water was a little messy around the Quoddy Light, and of course we now faced the NW wind and associated chop up the Lubec Channel, only making 2k. Quite knackered, we slogged under the bridge @ 1400, the slow current now heading south. Another mile to our home for the night @ Sunset RV Park, where we enjoyed a “double-wide” pavilion, surrounded by multiple options for pitching our tents on the lush, expansive grassy ground. The owners and staff were very welcoming and gracious, to the tune of the loan of Joanne’s car to enjoy a nice meal at Cohill’s downtown! A stop at Monica’s Chocolates across the road topped off another long day. The original plan for Day 3 was head up to the Letang Peninsula in New Brunswick, but because of our late start, a closer MITA island became our revised destination. This ferret-like critter was determined to stow away in my front hatch, but I decided otherwise. We got a late-ish start, and made our way to Eastport, via Dudley and Treat, hugging the shore up to Dog I. Light, before peeling across to Deer Pt., where the neighborhood of “Old Sow” was becoming restless. We had some current against us as we headed to Leonardville for Customs check-in (phone call only) and lunch in the shade We would then head into the Fundy Isles (West Isles), a beautiful archipelago featured in the current edition of Adventure Kayak magazine, and spend a quiet night next to a pleasingly idle marine farm. Route for Day 3: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6933039 Day 4 woke up bright and sunny, and a mid-morning launch had us pointing for Bliss Harbor, riding the end of the ebb, before getting a push up to Letang. The fog seemed to march in with the colder waters of the early flood, so we handrailed along the southern shores of Bliss and Letang Harbors, finding these atypical formations along the latter. We suspected we might get through the arch and around the islets (dubbed “the 3 sisters’) at HT. After setting up camp, we paddled CW amongst the other islands of the preserve, briefly stopping to chat up a local, raking seaweed, to be sold to commercial outfitters by the ton; his boat could hold 5, but he would soon quit at 3. Made a 20-minute run back to the sisters at HT, but they thwarted our efforts to weave around and through these beautiful landmarks. More post-supper careful planning for next day’s trip to Eastport, before heading to bed, alarms set for 4am. Route for day 4: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6933687 Forty-eight minutes after phones chirped, at exactly HT, we pushed off in the dark, dubbing with lit compasses. Rob had better luck than me, clipping a small PFD light to his paddle pants, duct tape shielding direct light to his eyes. Fog again, but no issue finding the mini peninsula pointing E from Letang, then handrailing to the SW tip, and diagonally over to Frye I. We had confirmed the day before with locals that the very green potential bar to Letang was indeed passable, especially at this point in the cycle. We soon found ourselves “at sea” in the fog, unable to recognize what the topo was telling us. We straightened ourselves out, and paddled on to Green Pt., where we issued a Securite call for the busy Letete Passage crossing. At 1.5h after HT, we met some confused water, and current pushing us N due to a strong back eddy created by Macs and Mohawk islands. We gathered at G”S5”, safely out of the path of some close, slowed-down big boats, and crossed to the SE peninsula on Macs I. We met some good ebbing current against us, proceeding along southern Macs; a local suggested we’d have no problem getting through Little Letite, and we didn’t. Around Pendleton, then a peek to see what water was moving through the little passage behind Pendleton-little to none. The N coast of Deer I. is a bit bold in its own right, and we were treated to kinda closeups of the local wildlife before taking a lunch break at the rocky beach before Oak Head. The pushing current around Clam Cove Head sped us along to Kendall Head, then to our planned campground for Day 5. After unloading our gear and checking in at the office, a gruff, self-appointed security “captain” from the top of the beach warned us about landing, before checking in at Customs in Eastport. His call to an even gruffer park manager resulted in the appearance of the Customs Officer at our boats, soon after we decided we would NOT be staying there under any circumstances! We made our way to the designated, overcrowded Customs check-in float, finished Customs, photo-opped, then made our way back to the warm-and-friendly Sunset RV campground. (Don’t even THINK of staying elsewhere when up here-great home base for multiple day trips). A long day on the water-25+ miles/11 hours. During our nightly, next-day planning, I suggested to Rob that we might cut our trip short, given a forecast of showers, possibly heavy, and T-storms for the next few days. OK-we left our 4am alarms in the “on” position, and carefully planned the last leg of our journey to Cobscook Bay. Route for day 5: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6933249 A clear, warm, and calm day 6 made for an easy paddle along Seward Neck and across the still bay, peculiar not to be dodging any lobster pots here or anywhere, during the past several days. Though not needed now, the calculated waypoint for Denbow point was spot-on, and we mostly drifted over the quiet ripple of Reversing Falls, 1/2h before slack flood. We broke fast in a little cove nearby, then finished the paddling at Edmunds Public Launch, Rob tending boats and gear, while I hoofed it 1.5 miles to Rte 1, where the 1020 West Bus would bring me back to the car in Machias. Route for day 6: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6933040 Take home points: Bold Coast: -If the weather window is favorable (you decide), we’d suggest leaving Cross I. or Cutler no later than 1.5 and 1h, respectively, before LT at Cutler, adding some extra time to the arduous trip UP the coast. -We can’t be sure if we were close to, or “on” the escalator to Lubec; a following SW 7-10 made it difficult to read any current nuances. Some have suggested being 1/2-1M from the coast-we were < that for most of the trip. At some point you should be averaging 6K. -Have a number of bailouts programmed into your GPS. -Remember you’ve got to be under the Narrows Bridge >1.5h before HT @ St. Johns. Beyond: -Pay VERY close attention to timing of currents in this region, and be conservative re: arrival times at these potential trouble spots. We found ourselves behind schedule more than once. -Thanks to John Carmody and strangers for “local” knowledge. The best reference we could find for this area, which I obtained via local interlibrary loan: A Cruising Guide to the Bay of Fundy and the St. John River: Including Passamoquoddy Bay and the Southwestern Shore of Nova Scotia Paperback– December, 1999by Nicholas Tracy (Author), Sarah Petite (Illustrator) -Max flood at the Falls is at 2h pre-HT @ St Johns; slack is 1h after HT @ SJ, or 1/2h after HT @ Lubec (Coffin’s Neck, nearby). -As with any multi-day safari, be prepared to alter your plans on the fly. -Choose your paddling partner(s) carefully-Thanks for joining me Rob! Trip planning dialogue.docx

Skip report; go straight to slideshow HERE Why I thought this trip would be the completion of my bucket list I’ll never know; perhaps I’ll get out a new bucket and start filling in the gaps of the Maine coast I haven’t paddled. This brainchild was hatched a year or more ago, and, from the start, included (newly-named) Bearded Socialite, a proven steady companion on previous treks. We were pleased to be joined late by Paul, who was able to squeeze time from work and family. I had worked out a scheme allowing us to do a one-way trip from Milbridge to Machias at a leisurely pace, relying on West Bus Service http://westbusservice.com/#SCHEDULE%20OF%20SERVICE for transport back to the launch site. Paul and I drove up separately to join Rob and the rest of the MDI party on Friday, for an 8am Saturday start from Bar Harbor to Milbridge. Rob kept tabs on the 3 kayaks while Paul and I drove to Machias to drop off our cars, and secure seats ($14 each-thank you Paul) on the van back to Milbridge, where we were dropped off a stone’s throw from the public ramp. A sunny, calm, warm day had us stripping out of the drysuits at the half-way point, and the easy paddling beckoned us to the longer CCW route around Bois Bubert to the camp site. We spent too much time trying to locate the rather obvious site, and wrote notes to “self” to read the MITA description before landing! A very pleasant site with room to spread out 3 little tents, without crowding. Route for Day 1: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6722011 Day 2 dawned slightly foggy with a 5-10 easterly, our general direction of travel. Off to Jordan’s Delight with its prominent, solitary saltbox perched on the southern high bluff, cozying to its rugged shore, then NE to Shipstern I., aptly named , before making our way towards the Mainland of Cape Split and Moose Neck. We followed the coast to Eastern Harbor, noting the absence of C “1”, before heading to Green I., via Tibbet and Ram. A rocky, choppy (my bad) landing preceded our lunch, warmed by Sol on the rocks. Stevens, our home for 2 nights was nearby, and we made haste to the sandy, welcoming cove to set up camp, cozy little alcoves for all. Route for Day 2: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6722336 A little rain interrupted the night, enough to create a big puddle in my poorly-pitched tarp, and fog was on the menu for an anticipated lengthy day trip to Great Wass. The dauntless 3 Amigos set paddle for Norton and found the middle of it after the 1-mile crossing. We handrailed CW to a westerly cove, then broke for Pomp, given the circumstance, hugging its western shore, before heading for the Beals bridge. We found relief from the 10-15 SW in the lee of Great Wass, and tucked into Sand Cove North for total calm and lunch on the rocks. With the fog disappearing, but the wind steady, we decided to tackle the trip to Sprucehead, and enjoyed a bumpy ride through Mud Hole Channel, splitting Knight and Mistake for a gander at the light. Into Head Harbor, inside Black, Crow Pt., Middle Hardwood and western tip of Head Harbor Island with beam to rear-quartering seas, before retracing our route back home, briefly bedazzled by the close-up display of Bald Eagle following the rules of Mother Nature. Norton and Pomp were slightly barred, and a short portage and rest before the long slog into the last, bumpy crossing to base camp at Stevens. After landing, a paddler slumped over his rear hatch brought concern for a pulled muscle, but max doses of vitamin I, and a few downward dogs, cat-cows, and cobras inside the tent brought partial relief. Route for day 3 http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6721770 By morning the worries for the sore paddler had abated, and we broke camp in an unhurried fashion, eyes on our next camp at Halifax. We followed a now-familiar route to the Beals bridge, under calm conditions, then eddy-hopped (bridge abutments) to the northern Jonesport side, to search for water. We chatted up a wharf-mate, who seemed a bit puzzled as to where to find restaurants, groceries, and potable water. We started easterly for the town dock before he hailed us back with welcome advice. The fire station across the road had an outside spigot AND public restroom! Rob and I filled our 3 depleted 6L dromedaries while Paul stayed with the boats at the strategically-placed pocket beach near the bridge. I had hoped to show the buds my grandparents old homestead on the way to Kelly Pt., but my prolonged absence (35 years) boggled my brain to its precise location. We had a nice lunch at Kelly Pt, Rob assembling his PB&J with the still-uncrushed, half-consumed bread loaf. Prominent signage at the shoreside, deserted, apparent park warned us to “not spoil our children’s fun”. We didn’t, and eyed the gentle 2+-mile crossing ahead to the Spruces, entering the southern channel, and passing bleating sheep on Little and a solitary cruiser at anchor near the thoroughfare. Roque Harbor was deserted, and the mile-plus sandy beach was admired from afar, as we paddled to Halifax’s NW cove, countering the fairly strong ebb seaward. A very cozy designated rectangle on the berm was agreed, at length, to be called “home” for at least one night. We would wait until morning to decide if sleeping like the Flinstones (sorta-we had air mattresses) was acceptable for the planned second nite. After setting up camp amid too many mossies, we gathered up provisions for dinner atop the western rise, then bushwhacked up the hillside to the peak, where we enjoyed supper, breathtaking views, including sunset/moonrise, and skeeters (not!). Route for Day 4: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6721559 Despite having slept OK, and ignoring warnings about the numerous radiation-emitting military towers and a creepy house, we decided that 2 nights on Cross I. would be favorable, so we meandered off in the general direction of Roque Bluffs State Park. We had expected to see some tall cliffs (why?), but the unimpressive coastline turned our kayaks to another MITA island , and we paddled bee-line under warm, sunny skies and flat seas to its northern cove. Lunch and a stroll around the island through long, then short grasses, had us guessing what the asking price was for this remote paradise. A range of 35K to 1.8M was elicited from the dubious voyagers, knowing that it included these residents: We now had Cross in our sites, 4 miles off, and aimed for big N “2”, passing NE Libbys, arriving at a taste of the “bold coast” along southern Cross, with slots, a sea cave, and precipitous cliff faces. Rob backed his way into the mostly submerged sea cave but didn’t get too far; we would attempt to check it out from land tomorrow. We arrived without fanfare to the old CG station, after passing the remains of the “older” CG building, now a pile of wood scrap near the shore. The old (haunted) house has served as base camp for Outward Bound sea adventures in the past, but we doubted it had seen these visitors over the preceding summer months, judging from the paucity of entries in the indoor log book. We spread out tents in the front field and enjoyed a quiet night under a starry/meteory sky, the red-blinking towers invading the otherwise bliss. Route for Day 5: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6721561 Thursday was to be a non-paddling day, we decided, so Rob and I donned our hiking shoes and set off for the famous sea cave. A jog before the privy led us to a boggy trail that brought us to a sandy cove, the dilapidated CG station in the distance. Try as we might to locate the coastal trail (dotted on the map) further along the shore, my bushwack in and out was fruitless, so we regrouped to head back to camp, and lunch. We decided to follow the more prominently-marked (thick dashes) trail leading to the cave, and had better luck, eventually leading to the cave at half-tide, but no entry. Back to camp around 5, salt- and fresh-water showers, critique of my repair kit, supper, and review of Tom Tieman’s 25-page copy of his trek along the Maine Coast, left behind from his trip several days before, as he finished the entire coast by patching in the last bit of Cross-to-Cutler with 3 other paddlers. Route for Day 6: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6721563 Another quiet paddling day for Friday, and we got on the water by 8:30 for the tedious slog to Machias, passing the very quiet Naval station shore, a large fish farm, and nondescript islands. I had promised the boys lunch at Helen’s, famous for their award-winning (a generic accolade, employed by any eatery, but well-deserved here) homemade pies. As we approached the ramp, my tired eyes tried to focus on the storefront sign on a building east of the causeway-stripes of orange and green with a central logo shaped like…….No, it couldn’t be. After all we’re now in Machias, Maine. The gal at the Irving station validated my impression, that, yes, that building down the road IS a Pat’s Pizza! I had to renege on my promise to Helen and the guys, but they were very agreeable to lunching at Pat’s, and we devoured most of the food in short order, stopped for take-out pie at Helen’s, then off (Rob and I) to Muscle Ridge for the next adventure! Route for Day 7: http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6721564 NOTES: Food: oatmeal or granola bars (breakfast); PB&J (lunch); simmered grains/root veggies, box soup, Indian foil meal (supper) Water: 13L over 7 days; re-supply @ Jonesport Fire Department Camp: Hubba, NeoAir (thermarest), 40 degree synthetic